F 

766 
S74- 


SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  CO. 


WAYSIDE  NOTES 


IANCROFT 
LIBRARY 


BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 

-O 

THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


OUTHER 


SOUTHERN  PACIFIC  PUBLICATIONS 


The   following  books,    descriptive   of  the   different   sections   of   country   i 
have  been  prepared  with  great  care  from  notes  and  data  gathered  by  local  . 
with  a  special  eye  to   fullness  and  accuracy.     They  are  up-to-date  handbooks 
fusely   illustrated    from   the   best   photographs,    and   form   a   series   invaluable   t 
tourist,  settler  and  the  investor.     They  will  be  sent  to  any  address,  postage  p?  . 
receipt   of   five  cents   each.     Twelve   cents   for   three   or   fifteen   cents   for   tl 
four  named. 

THE  SACRAMENTO  VALLEY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

THE  SAN  JOAQUIN  VALLEY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

THE  COAST  COUNTRY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

CALIFORNIA,  SOUTH  OF  TEHACHAPI. 

CALIFORNIA  FISHING,  5  cents. 

GOVERNMENT  LANDS  IN  NEVADA,  5  cents. 

OREGON  AND  CALIFORNIA — THE  KLAMATH  COUNTRY,  5  cents. 

THE  NEW  ARIZONA,  5  cents. 

THE  NEW  NEVADA,  5  cents. 

WAYSIDE  NOTES  ALONG  THE  SUNSET  ROUTE. 

THE  IMPERIAL  VALLEY. 

NORTH  BAY  COUNTIES,  CALIFORNIA. 

SIERRA  CREST  AND  CANYON  (In  Preparation.) 


The  following  publications,  most  of  which  are  illustrated,   will  be  sent  fre 

charge,  but  one  cent  for  each  should  be  enclosed  for  postage: 

BIG  TREE  FOLDER.  LAKE  TAHOE  RESORTS,  folder. 

CALIFORNIA  CLIMATIC  MAP,  folder.  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 

COOL  SEA  BREEZES.  BIG  TREE  PRIMER. 

CAMPER'S  PARADISE.  ORANGE  PRIMER. 

CALIFORNIA  FOR  THE  HOMEMAKER.  PRUNE  PRIMER. 

EAT  CALIFORNIA  FRUIT.  SETTLERS'  PRIMER. 


SUNSET    MAGAZINE — A    beautifully    illustrated    monthly    magazine    dealing 
land   and   seas   beyond   the    Rockies.      192    to    224   pages   every   month    of    the 
Western  stories  and  descriptive  articles.     The   Magazine   is  noted  for  its  beau 
illustrations.     Annual  subscription  $1.50,  including  two  beautiful  pictures,  in  col 
of  Pacific  Coast  points  of  interest,  ready  for  framing.      15  cents  per  copy  at  all  r 
stands.     Send  for  sample  copy. 


Requests    should   be   addressed   to    CHAS.    S.    FEE,    Passenger   Traffic    M 
SOUTHERN  PACIFIC,   San  Francisco,  Cal. 

Ai2o  (2-5-08— 2oM — E.B.) 


WAYSIDE 
NOTES 


ON      THE 


Sunset  Route 


Issued  by  the  Passenger  Department 

Southern  Pacific  Company 

San     Francisco,     California 
1  9  0  8 


S 


74 


The  Forbidden  Garden,    Santa   Barbara  Mission — into  this  monkly  paradise 
no  daughter  of  Eve  is  permitted  entrance. 


iancroft  Li  bray 


Wayside  Notes  on  the  Sunset 
Route 


TOWARDS    the    rising    sun    in    Arizona,    New 
Mexico,   Texas,    and    Louisiana,    we   take   our 
way  through  the  very  heart  of  early  missionary 
fields,    where    paganism    has    given    place    to 
Christianity.      The    line   of   travel    will   be   coincident 
with   El   Camino   Real — "the   King's   Highway" — not, 
to  be  sure,  a  counterpart,  or  suggestion  even,  of  the 
Roman  Appian  nor  of  Via  Aurelia  that  promise  to  be 
eternal,  but  the  loved  Camino  Real  of  the  fathers — 
the  undulating,  curving,  bridgeless  way— marked  chiefly 
by  sandaled  feet,  and  that  served  to  bind  each  succeeding 
mission  to  the  other  members  of  the  sacred  family. 

The  extreme  eastern  portion  of  it  was  parcel  of  that 
exploited  by  Ponce  de  Leon  in  1513  (107  years  before 
the  settlement  of  Plymouth  Colony),  and  Hernan  de 
Soto's  quest  ended  in  the  country  we  describe  years 
before  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  had  achieved  their  swad- 
dling clothes.  Later  came  Sieur  de  La  Salle  to 
struggle  vainly  against  the  immutable  decrees  of  fate; 
and  still  later  the  Acadians,  with  their  romantic  sor- 
rows to  stimulate  the  inspiration  of  Longfellow. 

Within  reasonable  limits,  answers  herein  should  be 
found  to  anticipate  the  questions  of  the  traveler. 


The  Coast  Line 

San    Francisco   to    Los   Angeles 


SAN  FRANCISCO-P0/>.,  435,ooo;  New  Orleans,  2487  miles 
distant. 

Because  these  pages  address  themselves  more  largely  to  the 
transient  world,  than  to  residents  of  San  Francisco  or  of 
California  even,  it  is  not  only  fitting,  but  imperative,  that 
something  in  descriptive  way  shall  be  said  of  that  metropolis. 

It  is  planted  upon  the  elevated  head  of  a  peninsula  bordered 
on  its  eastern  side  by  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  and  on  the 
western  by  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  that  has  extension  south- 
ward for  fifty  miles;  not  all  of  it  however  is  under,  control  of 
this  municipality. 

Approximately  it  has  an  area  of  220  square  miles,  and  the 
exterior  bounds,  fixed  by  waters  of  bay  and  ocean,  cover  a  line 
not  less  than  forty  miles  in  length;  in  medieval  times  its 
enclosing  walls  would  have  measured  fifty  miles.  Beyond  its 
southern  boundary,  but  not  far  distant,  there  is'  a  constriction 
of  the  peninsula — the  distance  across  the  neck  is  something 
more  than  five  miles  from  bay  to  ocean. 

The  topography  of  this  city-crowned  "head  of  the  penin- 
sula" lends  itself  generously  to  urban  development,  whether, 
with  safe  anchorage  and  space  of  wharves,  for  lines  that 
involve  the  ocean  carrying  of  the  Pacific  world;  or  for  manu- 
factures to  anticipate  wants  certain  to  arise  as  the  Orient 
awakes;  or  for  grand  commercial  houses  fitted  to  be  factors 
for  half  the  entire  human  family;  or  deeply  rooted  banking, 
and  cloud-courting  publication  offices;  halls  of  justice  whose 
foundations  rest  on  primeval  rocks,  that  the  scales  may  be 
held  in  untrembling  hands — these,  all  these  with  associate 
palatial  hotels  to  refresh  a  transitory  nation,  and  churches  and 
synagogues  to  save  a  world.  All  interests  that  lie  at  the  foun- 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


dation  of  municipal  greatness  are  found  within  easy  reach  of 
those  who  enter  the  city's  gates. 

And  then,  in  picturesque  relief  from  oppressive  dead-level 
commercialism,  residence  hills  everywhere — a  score  of  them, 
attainable  at  will  by  luxurious  street  cars — cable  and  electric 
— these  sanitary  hills,  covered  by  dwellings  in  endless  variety, 
some  of  them  sumptuous,  but  all  of  them  rilling  the  measures 
of  ideal  homes,  with  bloom  to  gladden  the  eye,  and  fragrance 
to  bless. 

Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Cliff  Rocks  seals  are  an  end- 
less delight;  and  the  "pomp  and  circumstance"  of  the  military 
Presidio  may  be  considered  a  prime  attraction, 

Over  all  and  pervading  all,  an  atmosphere  of  perennial  de- 
light; and,  in  official  and  business  and  social  life,  a  sturdy 
facing  in  the  right  direction — stimulated,  it  may  be,  by  a 
settled  conviction  that  no  bounty  of  heaven  is  too  good  for 
San  Francisco. 

As  all  the  world  knows,  San  Francisco  suffered  greatly  by 
the  tremendous  cataclysm  of  April,  1906,  and  the  great  fire 
that  followed  it;  but  the  world  does  not  yet  appreciate  that 
the  indomitable  spirit  has  already  made  a  new  city,  greater 
and  more  beautiful  than  before,  while  the  commercial  and 
financial  greatness  of  San  Francisco  experienced  but  a  brief 
temporary  check.  It  is  to-day  more  worthy  of  a  visit  than 
•ever  before.  If,  perforce,  one  must  leave  it,  and  is  permitted 
choice  of  routes,  the  start  will  be  from  the  Southern  Pacific 
depot,  at  Third  and  Townsend  Streets — the  outgoing  train 
for  many  miles  traversing  the  city  suburbs  over  the  famous 
double-track  Bay  Shore  Cut-Off,  and  passengers  can  mark  the 
various  steps  of  evolution  when  country  rises  to  urban  life. 

SOUTH   SAN  FRANCISCO—  N.    O.,  2476   miles;    Alt.,   n; 

Pop.,  1000. 

From  South  San  Francisco,  looking  towards  the  Bay,  di- 
verges a  railway  track  to  a  body  of  massive  buildings  in  the 
distance.  These  are  headquarters  of  Western  Meat  Company, 
•organized  on  plans  of  kindred  establishments  of  Armour  and 
Cudahy  in  the  East.  Its  operations  are  gigantic,  with  refrig- 
erated and  prepared  meats  sent  along  every  pathway  of  civil- 
ization. Important  steel  works,  terra  cotta  manufacture  plant 
.and  glazing  works  are  in  the  same  group. 


WAYSIDE    NOTES 


SAN    BRUNO— N.  O.,  2474  miles;   Alt.,  20;   Pop.,  1000. 

Here  joins  the  new  Bay  Shore  Cut-off  with  the  old  route 
over  the  hill  via  Ocean  View  and  Valencia  Street.  It  has 
been  splendidly  constructed  due  south  from  San  Francisco 
along  the  shore  of  the  bay. 

MILLBRAE— N.  O.,  2472  miles;    Alt,  8;    Pop.,  300. 

Millbrae  has  notable  private  estates  and  residences  tribu- 
tary to  it;  is  beautiful  for  situation,  and  abounds  in  rumi- 
nating flocks  and  herds. 

BURLINGAME— AT.  0.,  2469  miles;   Alt.,  20;   Pop.,  2000. 

The  conception  of  Burlingame  was  esthetic  in  unusual 
degree.  It  was  planned  to  preserve  and  enhance  its  natural 
endowments,  and  create  a  place  with  accessories  suitable  for 
the  nobler  sports  of  refined  social  life.  It  is  one  of  San  Fran- 
cisco's most  rapidly  growing  suburbs. 

SAN    MATED— N.  0.,  2467  miles;   Alt.,  22;   Pop.,  4000. 

San  Mateo  is  the  metropolis  of  the  county;  is  well  built 
and  enterprising,  not  less  on  the  nobler  lines  than  those  of 
commerce.  One  of  its  important  institutions,  making  appeal 
to  the  best  wishes  of  all,  is  St.  Matthew's  School,  of  which 
the  late  A.  L.  Brewer,  D.D.,  was  rector.  Near  San  Mateo, 
on  the  more  elevated  lands,  is  Crystal  Lake,  one  of  the  im- 
pounding reservoirs  of  the  Spring  Valley  Water  Company  of 
San  Francisco. 

BELMONT— N.  0.,  2463  miles;    Alt.]  21;    Pop.,  500. 

0      „    .       , T    „  Belmont,   named   by  its   beautiful 

San  Carlos-^.  O.,  2462  miles,  mountain>  is  one  of  the  best  es- 
teemed, near-by  resorts  of  San  Francisco.  It  is  acquiring 
fame  as  seat  of  Belmont  School  for  Boys,  with  Prof.  W.  T. 
Reid,  head-master. 

REDWOOD— N.  O.,  2460  miles;   Alt.,  8;   Pop.,  2500. 

Redwood    is     an    important    and 
Fair  Oaks—N.  O.,  2458  miles.  ,     .    •  , 

thriving    place;    in    a    degree,    as 

seat  of  its  government,  a  center  of  attraction  for  the  County 
of  San  Mateo.  The  name  is  a  memory  of  pristine  days,  when 
here  and  mountainward  there  was  a  fine  forest  of  redwoods 
(Sequoia  sempervirens}.  A  new  line  of  great  importance  is 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The    gardens   of   a    San    Mateo    home    in    one    of    San    Francisco's    favorite 

suburbs. 

now  being  constructed  to  Redwood  from  Niles,  crossing  the 
lower  arm  of  San  Francisco  Bay  by  a  drawbridge  at  Dum- 
barton Point.  This  will  enable  through  trains  from  the  East 
and  San  Joaquin  Valley  to  run  directly  into  San  Francisco 
without  ferry  transfer,  a  very  great  benefit  to  the  commercial 
interests  of  the  city  and  to  the  entire  San  Francisco  peninsula. 

MENLO    PARK— N.  O.,  2456  miles;    Alt.,  63;    Pop.,  1200. 

From  an  artistic  standpoint,  Menlo  Park  is  the  highest 
expression  of  rural  beauty  to  be  found  in  a  reach  covering 
fifty  miles  of  it.  It  occupies  an  oak-wooded  natural  park; 
on  the  one  side  the  placid  waters  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and 
on  the  other  San  Moreno  Mountains  (a  northerly  spur  of 
beauty-creating  Santa  Cruz  Range),  here,  to  keep  "watch  and 
ward"  against  any  unkindly  message  from  the  Pacific. 

This   park   is   a   popular   country   residence   place,   wherein 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


nature  with  lavish  hands  has  set  up  10,000  umbrageous  shrines 
for  Druid's  worship;  massive  oaks,  draped  not  in  funereal 
lichen,  but  festive  mistletoe  crowned. 

PALO    ALTO— N.  O.,  2455  miles;    Alt.,  57;    Pop.,  5500. 
Stanford  University 

Palo  Alto  is,  on  all  accounts,  a  charming  place  for  resi- 
dence, with  social  atmosphere  of  the  best.  With  city  utilities, 
from  electric  cars  to  paved  streets,  it  has  become  the  most 
important  city  of  the  peninsula. 

More  than  a  passing  view  must  be  had  of  Leland  Stanford 
Junior  University,  that  is,  and  is  to  be,  a  most  important  fac- 
tor in  the  welfare  of  our  race.  With  exceeding  depth  and 
breadth  of  wisdom  were  its  foundations  laid,  when  it  was 
ordained  that  without  sectarian  bias  its  teachings  should 
point  to  an  over-ruling  Providence  that  guides  the  affairs  of 
men. 
Mayfield — N.  O.,  2454  miles.  A  valued  tributary  to  Stanford  University 

and  junction  point  for  the  new  double-track  line  to   Santa  Cruz,  via  Los 

Altos  and  Los  Gatos. 
Mountain    View — N.    O.,    2449    miles.     A    charming    suburban    town,    with 

many  fine  homes.     Pacific  Press  Publishing  Co.  and  other  industries  are  here. 
Murphys — N.   O.,  2446  miles.     Umbrageous  in   native   oaks. 
Lawrence — N.  O.,  2445  miles.     Rich  in  varied  agriculture. 
Santa  Clara — N.  O.,  2441  miles.     Pop.,  4,500.     Seat  of  Santa  Clara  College 

and  home  of  refinement  and  beauty. 
Sunnyvale — A  manufacturing  town  of  2,500  people  newly  created  in  a  park 

of  beautiful  oaks. 

SAN    JOSE— AT.  0.}  2438  miles;   Alt.,  92;   Pop.,  35,000. 

San  Jose  is  the  home  of  apricots  and  prunes,  and  sends 
forth  an  abundance  of  peaches,  plums,  pears,  apples,  table 
grapes,  wine,  nuts,  small  fruits,  seeds  and  vegetables.  On  the 
manufacturing  side,  it  is  noted  for  fire  brick  and  terra  cotta 
production;  in  the  manufacture  of  beet  cultivating  imple- 
ments it  is  the  first  city  of  California,  and  is  second  in  general 
agricultural  outfits. 

In  the  city  and  its  environs  are  large  canneries  and  fruit 
drying  grounds,  cured  fruit  and  green  fruit  packing  houses. 
Green  fruit  packing  is  May  to  November,  and  dried  fruit,  July 
to  November.  Santa  Clara  Valley  fruit  commands  leading 
prices  in  the  world's  markets. 

On  social  side,  it  is  emphatically  a  home  city;   almost  every 


10 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The  Museum  at  Leland   Stanford  Junior  University — typical  of  the  college 
architecture. 

dwelling  is  floral  framed,  and  that,  too,  not  only  in  choicest 
native  bloom,  but  freely  also  in  rare  efflorescence,  that  in  less 
favored  places  would  be  exhibition  hot-house  exotics. 

These  displays  are  not  limited  to  the  rich,  but  are  the  abun- 
dant heritage  of  labor. 

The  social  atmosphere  of  San  Jose  meets  all  theoretical 
requirements,  its  standards  of  education  and  religion  are  ele- 
vated, the  seed-time  of  them  antedating  current  history. 

On  higher  line  (4269  feet  above  sea-level),  crowning  summit 
of  Mount  Hamilton,  is  Lick  Observatory — twenty-eight  miles 
from  San  Jose.  From  cars  of  Southern  Pacific  Company's 
railway  line,  and  as  well  from  San  Jose,  the  Observatory 
glints  as  a  silvered  spot  on  summit  of  the  mountain. 

Here,  through  the  great  telescope,  one's  vision  can  make 
transit  of  outer  ether,  covering  fields  occupied  by  thousands 
of  solar  systems,  equal  to  and  superior  to  our  own;  and  when 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


11 


In    the    springtime,    Santa    Clara    Valley    lies    white    beneath    the    snow    of 

blossoms. 

we  are  overwhelmed  by  this  hint  merely,  of  nature's  material 
immensity,  with  unfeigned  humility  of  spirit,  whisper — "What 
is  man,  that  thou  art  mindful  of  him!  " 

The  city  of  San  Jose  can  be  reached  by  two  other  Southern 
Pacific  lines,  one  via  Oakland  and  Niles,  and  the  other  via 
Oakland  and  the  eastern  shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay.  Both 
are  served  by  ferry  from  foot  of  Market  Street,  San  Francisco. 

Via  Oakland  and  Niles 
MARKET-STREET    FERRY— 


Oakland  Pier — S.  F.,  5  miles. 
West  Oakland — S.  F.,  6  miles. 
Oakland — S.  F.,  8  miles. 
East  Oakland — S.  F.,   10  miles. 
Fruitvale — S.  F.,   n  miles. 
San  Leandro — S.  F.,   16  miles. 


San  Lorenzo — S.  F.,  18  miles. 

Hay-ward — S.  F.,  21   miles. 

Decoto — S.  F.,  27  miles.  Near  De- 
coto  the  Grand  Lodge  of  Free  and 
Accepted  Masons  has  a  fine  home 
for  aged  fraters  and  their  wives. 


12  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

NILES— S1.  F.t  30  miles;   Alt.,  83;   Pop.,  400. 

Niles  is  famed  for  flower  culture, 

(faS(^BS^S34F.m3e7Smi.es.  £«*  tr?f  nurseries  and  orchards. 
Milpitas—S.  F.,  42  miles.  The  railway  line  bifurcates  here, 

the  left-hand  (to  be  noted  here- 
after in  connection  with  lines  to  Stockton  and  San  Joaquin 
Valley),  and  the  right-hand  one  leads  to  San  Jose. 

Via  Oakland  and  Bay  Shore 

The  third  line,  constructed  between  the  two  broad  gauge 
ones,  is  now  standard  width,  leaving  San  Francisco  also  from 
foot  of  Market  Street,  and  via  ferry  to  Oakland  Pier,  thence 
to  Santa  Cruz,  with  San  Jose  for  midway  point. 

Oakland  Pier—S.  F.,  5  miles.  Hall— S.  F.,  27  miles. 

Oakland — S.  F.,  7  miles.  Newark — S.  F.,  31  miles. 

East  Oakland — S.  F.,  9  miles.  Mowry — S.  F.,  33  miles. 

Elmhurst — S.  F.,   14  miles.  Alviso — S.  F.,  40  miles. 

West  San  Leandro — S.  F.,  16  miles.  Agnew — S.   F.,  42   miles.     Agnew  is 

West  San  Lorenzo — S.  F.,   18  miles.  seat  of  one  of  California's  insane 

Russell — S.  F.,  20  miles.  asylums. 

Mt.  Eden — S.  F.,  22  miles.  Santa  Clara — S.  F.,  45  miles. 

Alvarado — S.  F.,  26  miles.      Alvarado  College  Park — S.  F.,  47  miles, 
has    an    important    beet-sugar    fac- 
tory. 

It  should  be  noted  that  the  distance  to  San  Francisco,  by 
the  Palo  Alto  main  line,  is  46  miles;  via  Oakland,  it  is  47.9. 
All  first-class  tickets  are  good  via  Santa  Cruz  en  route  East, 
as  well  as  direct  via  Gilroy. 

CAMPBELL—  S.  F.,  52  miles;  Alt.,  197;  Pop.,  500. 

From  Campbell  a  narrow  gauge  line  runs  to  New  Almaden, 
as  follows: 

L.  G.  &  S.  J.  Road — S.  F.,  54  miles.  New  Almaden — S.  F.,  62  miles.     New 

Union  Avenue — S.  F.,  55  miles.  Almaden  has  a  quicksilver  produc- 

Le  Franc — S.  F.,  58  miles.  tion     record    that    may    challenge 

Almaden  Crossing — S.  F.,  61  miles.  successful   competition. 

At  Campbell,  and  as  well  along  this  line  last  noted,  fruit 
growing  has  found  its  home.  This  temperance  village  is  one 
of  the  richest  in  California. 

LOS    GATOS— S.  F.,  57  miles;  Alt.,  400;  Pop.,  3000. 

This  picturesque  town  is  able  to  offer  the  dual  attractions 
of  mountain  and  valley,  and  is  the  resort  of  many  appreciative 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  13 


visitors.  It  has  two  good  hotels,  a  cannery  and  packing 
house. 

Alma—$.  F.,  60  miles.  The    San    Jose  -  Los    Gatos    Inter- 

Forest  Grove — S.  F.,  62  miles.  urban  electric  railway  connects 
Wright— -S.  F.,  64  miles.  both  San  Jose  and  Los  Gatos  with 

Laurel-*.  F.,  65  mile*  Saratoga    and    the    beautiful    long- 

timed  famous  Pacific  Congress  Springs. 

At  San  Jose  and  in  the  suburbs  near  this  line,  via  Campbell 
and  Los  Gatos,  the  Guadalupe  River  will  be  seen.  It  drains 
the  mountains  about  New  Almaden,  and  on  its  banks  Mission 
Santa  Clara  was  founded. 

GLEN  WOOD— S.  F.,  66  miles;   Alt.,  885. 

Good  fortune,  materializing  as  a  railway  company,  has  led 
you  into  the  marvelous  penetralia  of  Santa  Cruz  Mountains; 
their  untold  treasures  of  trees  and  ferns  and  flowers  are 
before  you. 

To  Glenwood,  Laurel  and  Wright,  and  to  newly  dis- 
covered homes  of  the  wood  nymphs,  concealed  from  careless 
vision,  thousands  make  annual  pilgrimage  as  votaries  to  a 
shrine.  The  new  line  through  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  will 
be  open  in  the  spring  of  1909. 

MT.    HERMON— S.  F.,  72  miles;    Alt.,  300. 

A  new  redwood  forest  resort,  conducted  along  the  best 
possible  lines. 

The  line  last  noted  extends  to  the  ocean-side  at  Santa  Cruz, 
and,  in  so  doing,  traverses  a  most  romantic  mountain  region, 
the  constant  resort  of  those  who  can  enjoy  the  large  measure 
be  open  in  the  spring  of  1909. 

FELTON— 5\  F.,  74  miles;   Alt.,  273. 

From  Felton  a  branch  line  to  Ben 
Ben  Lomond— S.  F.,  77  miles.        Lomond  and  Boulder  Creek,  seven 

riioert — b.  c.,  oo  miles.  .,          .        ,  ,        <        ,        .t  , 

Boulder  Creek- -S.  F.,  81  miles.      miles    in    length,    leads    through    a 

most  romantic  section,  and  is  also 

in  close  relation  to  the  celebrated  hotel  and  resort,  Rowar- 
dennan,  occupying  a  picturesque  spot  at  the  base  of  Ben 
Lomand;  and  to  Brookdale,  with  its  famous  fish  hatchery  and 
beyond  to  Boulder  Creek,  gateway  to  the  new  State  redwood 
park. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  15 


BIG   TREES- S.  F.,  75  miles;   Alt.,  300. 

Rincon-S.F.,  77  miles.         Jhe    Big    Trees    are    five    miles    from 
Santa     Cruz,     and     a     stop     must     be 

made  for  their  examination.  They  are  Sequoia  sempervirens 
(redwood),  and  belong  to  a  class  that  has  been,  and  still  is,  a 
large  factor  in  the  lumber  interests  of  the  Pacific  Coast. 
These  are  giants.  Some  of  them,  as  they  stand,  have  hollows 
at  their  base  equal  to  the  temporary  housing  of  a  family. 
Shelter  within  one  of  them  was  sought  by  Fremont  before 
gold  was  discovered  in  California. 

SANTA    CRUZ—  S.   F.,  via   Main  Line,   121   miles;    via  Los 

Gatos,  80  miles;   Pop.,  11,000;   Alt.,  15. 

This  is  a  delightful  spot  for  recreation  and  for  rest.  Deep- 
water  fishing  in  the  bay  is  always  good,  and  upon  occasion  the 
successes  in  salmon  taking  are  phenomenal.  Bathing  and 
suburban  drives  are  sources  of  endless  pleasure.  The  water- 
front amusements,  including  casino,  pleasure  pier,  etc.,  repre- 
sent an  investment  of  $700,000.  There  is  a  large  tent  city. 
Sea  Beach  Hotel,  St.  George  and  other  hotels  are  ready  to 
supply  every  reasonable  want. 

Mission  Santa  Cruz 

This  mission,  whose  site  is  within  the  municipality,  was 
founded  by  Fathers  Salazar  and  Lopez,  on  the  twenty-fifth  of 
September,  1791.  The  church  long  since  passed  into  history. 

San  Lorenzo  River,  with  drainage  from  Santa  Cruz  moun- 
tain range,  borders  the  city,  and  ends  at  the  bay. 

For  convenience  of  travelers,  the  Main  Coast  line  from 
Santa  Cruz  to  junction  of  main  transcontinental  line  at  Pajaro 
will  be  here  introduced.  It  closely  follows  the  shore  of  the 
bay,  and  reveals  many  points  of  interest.  An  electric  railway 
runs  to  Capitola  and  Twin  Lakes  from  Santa  Cruz. 

Every  town  between  San  Francisco  and  Santa  Cruz  has  a 
board  of  trade,  and  invites  requests  for  literature. 
Twin  Lakes — S.  F.,  119  miles.  Capitola — S.  F.,  116  miles. 

CAPITOLA— S.  F.t  116  miles;   Alt.,  57. 

Aptos,  Capitola  and  Twin  Lakes  are  attractive  seaside  re- 
sorts along  the  beach  of  Bay  of  Monterey.  They  are  much 


16 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The   Big   Trees   of   Santa   Cruz   are   older   than   Pharaoh   would   be,    had   he 

lived. 

in  request  for  season  use  by  families,  and  have  a  growing  list 
of  transient  visitors. 
Elltcott — S.   F.,    107  miles. 

WATSON VILLE— S.  F.,  102  miles;  Alt.,  23;   Pop.,  4500. 

The  thrift  and  enterprise  of  Watsonville  are  proverbial;  it  is 
the  business  center  of  rich  Pajaro  Valley,  that  exports  an 
average  of  two  thousand  cars  of  apples  a  year.  It  has  twenty 
packing  houses  to  handle  this  valuable  output.  Its  daily 
summer  shipment  of  small  fruits  to  San  Francisco  averages 
five  cars.  Beans,  potatoes,  onions  and  other  vegetables,  and 
sugar-beets  are  raised  in  large  quantities,  and  the  cultivation 
of  grain  is  not  neglected.  Watsonville  is  one  of  the  hand- 
somest cities  in  California,  and  claims  the  most  beautiful  high 
school  building  in  the  State. 

Resuming,  now,  the  main  line  left  by  us  at  San  Jose,  we  find 


WAYSIDE    NOTES 


17 


The   Casino   at   Santa   Cruz   is   delightfully  situated — 'twixt  smiling   sea   and 
sunny  shore. 


HILLSDALE— N.  O.,  2433  miles;  Alt.,  147. 

From  Hillsdale,  a  branch  line,  eight 
miles  long,  reaches  New  Almaden. 
The  north-flowing  stream,  that 
from  time  to.t  time  reveals  itself 
to  the  train,  is  Coyote  Creek. 

Morganhill — N.  O.,  2418  miles.  A 
prosperous  fruit-growing  colony  of 
a  thousand  people. 


Alamitos — S.  F.,  59  miles. 
Greystone — S.  F.,  61  miles. 
New  Almaden — S.  F.,  63  miles. 


Coyote — N.  O.,  2426  miles. 
San  Martin — N.  O.,  2414  miles. 


GILROY— N.  0.,  2408  miles;   Alt.,  192;  Pop.,  2000. 

Gilroy  is  a  city  of  local  importance,  and  the  point  where 
stages  are  taken  for  Gilroy  Hot  Springs,  fourteen  miles  dis- 
tant. These  springs  have  acquired  a  fine  reputation  for  cura- 
tive properties.  Between  Gilroy  and  Carnadero  are  famous 
seed  farms. 


18  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

CARNADERO— N.  0.,  2406  miles;  Alt.,  192. 

From  'Carnadero  a  branch  line  ex- 

*HlllTi~w—S  F9  milemiles  tends  southeasterly  to  Tres  Pinos, 

Tres^Pinos—S.  £.,  101  mik*.          eighteen    miles     distant.     It    trav- 
erses a  rich  fruit,  grain  and  grass 

growing  country,   and   reveals   Hollister,   a   rich   fruit  and   dairy 

center  of  2,500  population. 

SARGENT— N.  0.,  2402  miles;  Alt.,  133. 

By  a  short  branch  line  ride  of  seven 

Mission  San  Juan  Bautista  -i         <•  r*^  -±±       j  ^±   t_i 

miles   from    Chittenden,   a   profitable 

visit  can  be  made  to  the  city  of  San  Juan,  and  its  historical 
and  romantic  mission,  San  Juan  Bautista,  founded  by  Presi- 
dent Lasuen  on  the  twenty-fourth  day  of  June,  1797.  Stages 
meet  all  trains.  The  south-flowing  waters  are  tributary  to 
Pajaro  River. 

AROMAS— 

A  fruit  and  berry  growing  center. 

PAJARO— N.  O.,  2389  miles;   Alt.,  22;   Pop.,  500. 

This  is  a  junction  point  at  which  we  arrive  by  extension  of 
the  trip  to  Santa  Cruz.  The  valley  of  which  it  is  sponsor 
carries  an  exhaustless  fertility,  and  the  town  has  an  im- 
portance that  is  not  revealed  by  a  careless  inspection. 

In  relation  to  it,  you  have  become  acquainted  with  Pajaro 
River,  a  considerable  stream,  formed  by  Carnadero  Creek 
from  the  north,  San  Benito  and  San  Felipe  from  the  east,  and 
Tres  Pinos  from  the  south.  When  it  was  first  crossed  by 
white  men,  in  1769,  it  was  named  Pajaro  (Spanish  for  bird), 
in  recognition  of  a  stuffed  bird  exhibited  by  the  Indians. 

C ASTRO VILLE— TV.  0.,  2378  miles:   Alt.,  15;   Pop.,  600. 

At  Castroville  an  important  arm  of  Southern  Pacific  Com- 
pany's lines  radiates  southward  at  an  acute  angle  to  reach 
Hotel  del  Monte,  Monterey,  Pacific  Grove  and  Carmel-by- 
the-Sea. 

It  is  the  notable  experience  of  a  lifetime  to  make  this  trip. 

DEL    MONTE— S.  F.,  125  miles;   Alt.,  25. 

A  gem  in  an  umbrageous  and  floral  setting,  that  baffles  the 
descriptive  powers  of  poesy  or  prose.  Would  you  see  what 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


Not  the  least  of  Del   Monte's  charm  lies   in  the   gardens. 

is  possible  of  achievement  when  art  and  nature  co-operate? 
Then  visit  Hotel  del  Monte.  The  hotel  and  all  the  improve- 
ments are  in  such  artistic  harmony  with  each  other  and  with 
the  matchless  work  of  nature  in  which  they  are  placed,  that 
any  approach  to  discord  is  unknown. 

Point  Pinos  and  its  Monterey  Cypress 

This  matchless,  ocean-washed,  rock-bound  landscape  must 
be  visited  to  be  understood.  Small  wonder  it  was  loved  of 
the  Fathers  and  named  Carmel.  It  has  an  aroma  of  Palestine. 

MONTEREY— 5.  F.,  126  miles;   Alt.,  10;   Pop.,  3000. 

Within  a  circle  of  six  miles  about  Monterey  are  more 
objects  of  sacred,  historic,  romantic  and  scenic  interest  than 
can  be  found  within  any  other  similar  area  in  California;  and 
are  happily  included  in  the  famous  sixteen-mile  drive  from 
Hotel  del  Monte. 


20  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

Along  these  shores  Cabrillo  coasted  in  1542,  and  November 
15th  named  the  land-fall  "Cabo  de  Pinos"  and  the  sheltered 
waters  "Bahia  de  los  Pinos."  In  1603  Sebastian  Vizcaino 
discovered  Carmel  River  on  the  fourteenth  of  December,  and 
on  the  sixteenth  rounded  Punta  de  Pinos  and  landed  at  Mon- 
terey. In  1770,  June  3d  (not  30th,  as  frequently  quoted), 
Junipero  Serra  founded  Mission  San  Carlos  Borromeo,  on  a 
spot  near  the  beach  within  the  limits  of  the  present  muni- 
cipality, but  a  short  time  subsequently  transferred  it  five 
miles  easterly  to  the  bank  of  Carmel  River.  The  ancient 
church  in  city  of  Monterey  is  a  parish  church  merely,  and  not 
San  Carlos  Mission,  nor  ever  was. 

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA— 

Here,  sheltered  by  lovely  Carmel  Hills,  is  also  Carmel-by- 
the-Sea,  with  its  magnificent  beach  a  mile  in  length,  fringed 
by  a  dense  growth  of  pines,  and  an  excellent  hotel,  a  favorite 
resort  for  artists  and  other  nature  lovers.  Many  charming 
villas  have  been  built  here  for  permanent  as  well  as  summer 
residences. 

PACIFIC    GROVE— 5.  F.,  129  miles;   Alt.,  47;  Pop.,  3000. 

Pacific  Grove,  in  its  popularity  as  a  seaside  resort,  has 
grown  apace  until  the  measure  of  a  city  has  been  reached.  Its 
physical  and  moral  purity  commend  it  to  all  lovers  of  those 
graces,  and  each  successive  season  increasing  thousands  flock 
to  its  enjoyment. 

Leland  Stanford  Junior  University,  through  the  public  spirit 
of  Mr.  Timothy  Hopkins,  has  its  marine  laboratory  in  touch 
with  the  prolific  waters  of  Pacific  Grove.  The  work  of  this 
Department  of  the  University  takes  deservedly  high  rank  in 
educational  circles.  Glass-bottomed  boats  here  reveal  the 
wonders  of  the  deep. 

Returning     now     to     Castroville     we     resume     the     trans- 
continental trip. 
Cooper — N.  O.,  2375  miles. 

SALINAS— N.  O.,  2371  miles;   Alt.,  43;   Pop.,  4000. 

Salinas,  county  seat  of  Monterey,  is  one  of  the  best  business 
towns  on  the  Coast.  It  is  a  freight  run  terminal  of  Southern 
Pacific  Company,  with  usual  repair  shops. 

Four  miles  distant  is  the  Spreckels  beet-sugar  factory,  and 


WAYSIDE    NOTES  21 

the  surrounding  country  is  noted  for  sugar-beet  production, 
and  for  fruit  and  vegetables  generally.  This  is  the  chosen 
habitat  of  the  Salinas  Burbank  potato. 

Nine  miles  east  of  Salinas  may  be  found  wonderful  trap- 
rock  statuary,  with  largest  conglomerate  rocks  in  the  known 
world;  mysterious  caves,  underground  lakes,  great  walls  and 
the  Castle  of  Vancouver.  These  are  known  as  Vancouver's 
Pinnacles. 
Chualar — N.  O.,  2360  miles.  Consoles — N.  O.,  2354  miles. 

SOLED  AD— AT.  O.,  2345  miles;    Alt.,  180;    Pop.,  300. 

At  Soledad,  on  the  ninth  day  of  October,  1791,  the  Mission 
of  Nuestra  Senpra  de  la  Soledad  was  founded  by  Fathers 
Sitjar  and  Garcia.  Antiquarian  and  sacred  interest  attaches 
to  its  remaining  walls.  The  ruins  are  hardly  more  than 
ruins,  but  are  still  visited  by  the  curious  and  reverent. 

A  pleasant  drive  of  twelve  miles  leads  to  the  Vancouver's 
Pinnacles,  lately  turned  into  a  National  Park.  Here  is  a  real 
wonderland  of  weird  peaks  and  cliffs  and  caves  set  in  a  wood- 
land wilderness. 

The  well-known  and  popular  Paraiso  Hot  Springs  are 
reached  by  "coach  and  four"  out  of  Soledad  within  the  space 
of  one  hour  and  a  half.  The  waters  are  the  best  .the  heart  of 
Sierra  Santa  Lucia  can  distill,  and  the  surroundings  restful  to 
a  degree  hardly  to  be  believed. 

The  Salinas  River  has  been  closely  followed  since  our  first 
sight  of  it  at  Spence,  near  Salinas,  and  will  remain  in  sight 
until  we  reach  Santa  Margarita.  The  Fathers  named  it  "Rio 
de  Santa  Delfino." 

KINGS    CITY— AT.  0.,  2325  miles;  Alt.,  331;  Pop.,  500. 

Kings  City  is  a  business  center  of  a  fertile  farming  country, 
that  needs  but  the  irrigation  enterprise  now  under  way  to 
make  it  a  very  productive,  section.  Westward,  and  not  far 
distant,  are  the  sightly  ruins  of  Mission  San  Antonio  de 
Padua,  founded  July  14,  1771,  by  Serra,  assisted  by  Fathers 
Pieras  and  Sitjar.  It  was  located  on  the  Arroyo  Seco,  an 
affluent  of  the  Salinas.  Near  here  is  the  new  colony,  Green- 
field. 

San  Lucas — N.  O.,  2350  miles.  San  Ardo — N.  O.,  2306  miles 

Bradley — N.  O.,  2293  miles 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  23 

SAN    MIGUEL— N.  O.,  2281  miles;    Alt.,  615;    Pop.,  300. 

San  Miguel,  noted  for  its  salubrity,  was  selected  by  the 
army  commission  as  the  best  place  in  all  the  West  for  a 
permanent  camp.  The  people  are  prosperous,  and  popula- 
tion increases.  On  the  twenty-fifth  of  July,  1797,  at  this 
place,  President  Lasuen,  the  successor  of  Serra,  founded  the 
Mission  of  San  Miguel.  The  walls  now  seen  by  you  from 
the  car  windows  are  the  work  of  saints  and  pagans  more 
than  one  hundred  years  ago.  The  prudent  Fathers  insured 
a  valuable  domestic  water  supply  by  a  ten-mile  conduit  from 
the  springs  of  Santa  Ysabel. 

PASO    ROBLES— N.  O.,  2272  miles;  Alt.,  721;  Pop.  1500. 

At  Paso  Robles  and  vicinity  are  located  some  of  the  most 
valued  thermal  springs  of  California.  One  hundred  and  fifty 
years  ago  the  invalid  white  was  guided  by  the  red  man  to 
these  springs  as  to  a  fountain  of  life.  During  the  last  half 
century  they  have  cured  and  relieved  their  thousands.  Hotel 
El  Paso  de  Robles,  leading  in  modern  sumptuousness, 
stands  behind  a  floral  park,  near  to  and  facing  the  railway 
depot,  and  within  easy  reach  of  the  Hot  Springs  that  are 
said  to  hold  reserve  power  to  benefit  the  well,  after  having 
cured  the  sick.  A  new  bathhouse,  in  Moorish  design,  with 
porcelain  and  marble  equipment  has  replaced  the  pioneer 
structure  that,  at  all  times  heretofore,  has  earned  benisons 
from  those  who  have  enjoyed  its  benefits;  and  the  second 
floor  of  the  hotel,  by  an  arcade  passageway,  is  brought  into 
easy  and  secluded  connection  with  it.  The  improvements 
cover  every  sanitary  method  of  treatment  elsewhere  found 
beneficial.  Admiral  Robley  D.  Evans  recruited  here  after  his 
famous  two-ocean  voyage. 

Santa  Ysabel  Hot  Springs 

Across  the  Salinas  from  Paso  Robles  Station  is  the  scenic 
and  sanitarium  resort,  known  of  the  fortunate  as  Santa  Ysabel 
Hot  Springs.  For  near-by  and  far-reaching  landscape  beauty, 
the  scene  from  the  upper  bluffs,  back  of  the  meadow  land, 
has  no  peer  in  California;  and  a  bath  in  champagne  could 
hardly  be  more  sparkling  than  one  in  the  warm,  sulphurous 
and  healing  water's  of  its  magic  springs. 
TEMPLETON— N.  O.,  267  miles;  Alt.,  772. 

A  romantic  landscape,  with  ancient  church  ruins. 


24  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

SANTA    MARGARITA— Ar.  O.,  2253  miles;   Alt,,  996. 

En  route  southward  from  Santa  Margarita,  across  a  spur 
or  pass  of  the  Santa  Lucia  Range,  a  run  of  sixteen  miles,  the 
earlier  part  of  it  through  a  most  restful  natural  park  of  oaks, 
leads  to  San  Luis  Obispo.  The  descent  around  the  inclined 
horseshoe  curve  into  the  valley  is  of  striking  interest.  The 
green  slopes  and  wooded  crest  are  as  of  the  Rhine. 

SAN    LUIS    OBISPO— N.  0.,  2236  miles;  Alt. ,237;  Pop.,  6000. 

This  beautiful  city  may  well  be  named  Obispo,  securely 
resting  at  base  of  its  mitred  mountain  peak.  The  urban  site 
proper  covers  a  large  area,  with  noteworthy  public  buildings, 
for  uses  of  justice,  of  worship  and  of  commerce.  A  notable 
feature  is  the  State  Polytechnic  School  here,  which,  with  a 
fine,  though  still  inadequate,  equipment,  is  doing  a  great  work 
in  teaching  young  men  and  women  the  practical  sciences  of 
life.  In  agricultural,  home-making  way,  similarly  to  Paso 
Robles  and  much  of  the  country  bordering  Salinas  River,  San 
Luis  Obispo  invites  immigration. 

Port  Harford,  on  the  Pacific,  is  seven  miles  distant,  and 
scenic  Morro  Rock  is  on  the  beach  twelve  miles  from  the 
city.  San  Luis  Sulphur  Springs,  five  miles  away,  is  a  popular 
resort. 

In  the  very  heart  of  the  city  are  the  walls  and  the  altar  of 
Mission  San  Luis  Obispo  de  Tolosa,  consecrated  by  Serra  on 
the  first  day  of  September,  1772.  The  mountains  belong  to 
the  Santa  Lucia  Range.  - 

OCEANO — AT.   O.,  2222  miles;    Alt.,  17;  Pop.,  300. 

Oceano  is  station  for  the  rich  Arroyo 
Edna— N.  O.,  2230  miles.       Grande  Valley,  and  for  its  great  flower, 

grain,  and  fruit  farms. 

EL    PIZMO— N.  0.,  2223  miles;    Alt.,  25. 

El  Pizmo  Beach  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  famous  of 
the  entire  coast.  Seventeen  miles  long  and  of  great  width,  it 
is  smooth  and  firm,  and  the  addition  of  a  fine,  well-kept  hotel, 
having  all  desired  facilities  and  conveniences,  with  cottages 
and  a  tent  city,  has  made  it  a  favorite  place  for  automobile 
meets  and  runs. 


WAYSIDE    NOTES 


25 


The   hotel   at   Paso    Robles    delights   pleasure    and    health    seekers   alike. 

GUADALUPE—  N.  O.,  2212  miles;    Alt.,  So;   Pop.,  500. 

Guadalupe  is  a  bright,  attractive  town,  pleasing  to  every 
cultivated  sense.  It  is  center  of  a  bean,  sugar-beet  and  dairy 
country;  is  shipping  point  for  Santa  Maria  Valley.  It  has  a 
five-mile  branch  railway  to  Betteravia,  at  which  point  is 
located  a  beet-sugar  factory,  which  can  be  seen  from  the  car 
windows  while  traversing  the  hills  south  of  Guadalupe,  and 
here  are  in  sight  as  well  a  chain  of  contiguous  lakes.  Santa  Maria 
is  ten  miles  distant,  reached  by  electric  railway.  Near  Santa 
Maria  the  greatest  oil  field  in  the  West  has  been  developed, 
flowing  now  at  the  rate  of  14,000,000  barrels  per  annum. 


Casmalia — N.  O.,  2201  miles. 


Narlon — N.  O.,  2195  miles. 
Antonio — N.  O.,  2198  miles. 


TANGAIR—  N.  O.,  2191  miles. 

Santa    Ynez    River   heads    in    Santa    Ynez    Mountains,    and 
finds  the  ocean  near  Tangair. 


26 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


At   Santa   Ysabel — a   lake    of   limpid    mineral   water. 

SURF— N.  O.,  2185  miles;  Alt.,  45. 

Rock-bound  Surf  offers  fine  ocean  views.  The  coast  coun- 
try traversed  by  the  train  from  San  Luis  Obispo  to  Surf  is 
of  a  very  productive  quality,  abounding  in  rich  grass  lands 
for  grazing  and  for  varied  agriculture,  with  emphasis  on 
sugar-beets  and  beans. 

Branch  Line — Surf  to  Lompoc 
LOMPOC— S.  F.,  313  miles;   Alt.,  937;   Pop.,  1500. 

This  beautiful  city  is  reached  by  a  branch  railway  line  from 
Surf;  the  distance,  ten  miles.  The  climate  is  a  golden  mean 
between  seaside  and  valley;  it  is  one  of  the  richest 'and  most 
salubrious  places  in  California;  here  is  raised  one-half  of  the 
mustard  used  in  the  United  States,  and  also  large  crops  of 
beans,  sugar-beets  and  apples.  Hotel  accommodations  are 
abundant,  and  suited  to  varying  tastes.  Within  the  city 
limits  are  ruins  of  the  first  La  Purisima  Concepcion  Mission 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  27 

(destroyed  by  earthquake  in  1812);  and,  about  five  miles  dis- 
tant, across  the  river,  are  the  remains  of  the  second  mission. 

Main  Line — Surf  to  Santa  Barbara 

Arguello — N.  O.,  2176  miles.  Naples — N.  O.,  2133  miles;  Alt.,  98 

Conception — N.  O.,  2163  miles;  Alt.,  109      Elwood — N.  O.,  2129  miles;  Alt.,  37 
Gaviota — N.  O.,  2149  miles;  Alt.,  92  Goleta — N.  O.,  2125  miles;  Alt.,  37 

The  ocean-line  distance  from  Surf  to  Santa  Barbara  is 
sixty-six  miles.  For  most  part  the  track  occupies  a  sub- 
stantial buttress  of  Santa  Ynez  Mountain  Range,  with  suffi- 
cient elevation  to  give  commanding  views  of  Santa  Barbara 
Channel  and  of  the  chain  of  romantic  islands  that  marks  its 
outer  limits.  Of  these  San  Miguel,  the  most  northern,  holds 
the  ashes  of  Juan  Rodriguez  Cabrillo,  who  was  buried  here 
on  the  third  day  of  January,  1543.  Then  follow  in  due 
sequence  southeasterly,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Cruz  and  Ana- 
capa. 

Mission  Santa  Ynez 

Across   the   Santa   Ynez   Range   from    Goleta,   seven   miles 
from  Santa  Barbara,  and  near  river  of  same  name,  September  t 
17,   1804,  was  founded  Santa  Ynez  Mission,  President  Tapis* 
officiating, 

SANTA  BARBARA— N.  O.,  2118  miles;  Alt.,io;  Pop. ,12,000. 

Santa  Barbara  is  a  city,  and  one  of  the  most  attractive  in 
California.  There  is  a  wide  expanse  of  blue  channel  water 
on  the  ocean  side,  reaching  to  the  chain  of  islands  that  serve 
as  breakwaters  to  waves  born  of  Chinese  monsoons;  and,  in 
the  background,  spurs  and  peaks  and  bosky  glens  of  romantic 
Santa  Ynez  Range,  and  the  far-reaching  Sierra  de  San  Rafael. 
The  city  has  an  unusually  delightful  country  tributary  to  it; 
valuable  not  less  for  its  ability  to  nourish  than  for  its  scenic 
beauty. 

Santa  Barbara  is  noted  for  its  equable  climate,  and  as  a 
health  resort  is  to  this  Coast  what  Nice  and  Mentone  are  to 
the  Mediterranean,  with  conditions  in  favor  of  Santa  Bar- 
bara. 

If  possible  to  you  en  route,  stop  over  and  take  carriage 
drives  through  its  tributary  orchard  lands — they  will  be  a 
revelation  of  what  can  be  garnered  when  soil  and  sunshine 
and  water  combine  to  make  a  record.  The  traveler  should 


28  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

know  of  the  broad  welcome  and  proverbial  comforts  of 
Arlington  Hotel  and  of  the  Potter,  with  many  lesser  hotels, 
comfortable  and  in  variety.  The  great  beach  and  mountain 
drives,  the  fine  baths,  the  beautiful  residence  section  and  the 
mission  offer  much  of  interest. 

Mission  Santa  Barbara 

This  is  one  of  the  best  preserved  of  California's  missions; 
was  founded  December  4,  1786,  is  within  the  city  limits,  and 
may  easily  be  reached  by  street  car  lines  or  on  foot.  Prayer 
at  its  altars,  since  first  established,  has  never  ceased. 

SUMMERLAND— Ar.  O.,  2111  miles;   Alt.,  47. 

Summerland  (a  pleasure  resort  until  in  an  evil  hour  for  its 
claims  to  esthetic  beauty,  but  happy  one  for  its  bank  ac- 
counts, underlying  oil  was  discovered)  is  now  successfully 
invading  the  adjacent  ocean  bed,  oil  hunting. 

CARPINTERIA— N.  O.,  2106  miles;   Alt.,  n;   Pop.,  1000. 

Carpinteria  (in  Spanish  tongue  the  place  of  the  carpenter) 
obtained  its  name  from  Friar  Juan  Crespi  and  his  companion 
pioneers  in  August,  1769,  who  found  the  Indians  engaged  in 
such  carpentry  as  may  be  needful  to  change  the  bole  of  a 
tree  into  a  canoe. 

Here  is  a  wonderful  grapevine,  probably  as  old  as  the  Mis- 
sions and  larger  than  any  other  known  on  the  continent.  Its 
enormous  yield  is  equalled  only  by  the  ancient  vine  at  Hamp- 
ton Court. 

VENTURA— N.  O.,  2089  miles;   Alt.,  43;   Pop.,  3000. 

This  is  a  pleasant  little  city,  its  foot  laved  by  the  Pacific 
and  its  shoulders  well  against  the  uprising  mountain  range 
that  seems  to  grudge  it  needed  space.  The  location  received 
successive  and  admiring  visits  from  the  advance  line  of 
Spanish  adventurers,  and  finally,  on  the  thirty-first  of  March, 
1782,  Father  Serra  founded  the  Mission  of  San  Buenaventura, 
as  he  records:  "Near  the  beach  and  adjoining  a  native  town 
of  conical  huts  of  tule  and  straw." 

Ventura  produces  immense  crops  of  choice  apricots,  and  is 
by  no  means  wanting  in  other  fruits,  with  almonds,  English 
walnuts  and  broad  acres  of  Lima  beans.  Bordering  the  city 
at  the  north  is  Buenaventura  River,  by  some  map-makers 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  29 


called  Matilija.  This  stream  heads  in,  and  in  some  degree 
drains,  the  celebrated  Ojai  Valley,  of  which  Nordhoff  is  the 
best-known  town;  and  along  its  inviting  banks  from  San 
Buenaventura  has  been  constructed  a  fifteen-mile  branch 
railway,  with  terminus  at  Nordhoff;  over  this  line,  and  by 
stage  from  Nordhoff,  the  Matilija  Hot  Springs  are  reached. 
The  buttressing  mountains  at  rear  of  San  Buenaventura,  and 
in  which  a  basin  has  been  molded  to  create  Ojai  Valley,  are 
of  the  Sierra  de  San  Rafael  Range. 

Nordhoff — From   San  Buenaventura,  15    miles;    Alt.,    720. 

MONTALVO— Ar.  O.,  2084  miles;    Alt.,  36. 

Montalvo  marks  the  western  terminus  of  the  cut-off  of  the 
Coast  Line  commencing  at  Burbank,  recently  completed  by  a 
great  tunnel  through  the  range  at  Chatsworth  Park.  It  may 
be  of  interest  to  the  curious  to  know,  as  discovered  by  Ed- 
ward Everett  Hale,  that  a  romance  in  1510,  by  Ordonez  de 
Montalvo,  first  gave  expression  to  the  name  California. 

Chatsworth  Cut-off 

Oxnard — N.  O.,  2068  miles.  Santa  Susanna — N.  O.,  2044  miles. 

Somis — N.  O.,  2063  miles.  Chatsworth — N.  O.,  2034  miles. 

Moorpark — N.  O.,  2051  miles.  Burbank — N.  O.,  2016  miles. 

Continuing  on  the  Saugus  Line. 
Saticoy — N.  O.,  2080  miles;  Alt.,  145;  Pop.  500. 

SANTA    PAULA— N.  O.,  2072  miles;    Alt.,  286;   Pop.,  1450. 

Santa  Paula  is  a  well-built,  enterprising  and  thrifty  town, 
with  large  interests  in  oranges,  apricots  and  other  fruits,  and 
in  walnuts,  Lima  beans  and  petroleum. 
Fillmore — N.   O.,  2062  miles. 

PIRU— N.  O.,  2055  miles;   Alt.,  68 1. 

Piru,  in  full  harmony  with  other  points  in  the  valley  called 
Santa  Clara,  and  watered  by  a  river  of  same  name,  gives 
generous  returns  each  season  in  fruits  and  nuts. 

CAMULOS— N.  O.,  2053  miles. 

This  cluster  of  houses,  embowered  by  oranges  and  olives, 
and  with  their  backs  turned  toward  the  intruding  railway,  in 
romance  of  Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  under  name  "Moreno 


c  " 

""   0) 

JS  6 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  31 

Ranch,"  was  the  home  of  Ramona.  The  author's  descriptions 
and  locations  of  points  of  interest  are  marvels  of  exactness. 
The  general  mountain  range  northward,  and  separating  it 
from  the  Mojave,  is  San  Rafael;  at  the  south  Sierra  San 
Fernando. 

SAUGUS— N.  O.,  2038  miles;    Alt.,  1159. 

At  Saugus  is  junction  point  of  the  line  south,  coming  from 
San  Francisco,  through  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  picturesque 
Tehachapi  Mountain,  and  again  in  due  course  will  bg  reached 
by  us  when  that  line  is  traced. 

NEWHALL—  N.  O.,  2035  miles;    Alt.,  1265. 

Contiguous  to  Newhall  on  elevated  ground  at  the  east,  are 
petroleum   wells    that   have   been    large   producers    for   many ; 
years. 

TUNNEL— N.  O.,  2031  miles;   Alt.,  1401. 

This  tunnel,  piercing  the  narrowest  section  of  San  Fernando 
Range,  requires  five  minutes  of  passenger-train  time  to  cover 
its  distance  of  nearly  one  mile  and  a  half;  at  its  southern 
exit  introduces  you  to  the  largest  olive  grove  in  the  world. 

FERNANDO— N.  O.,  2026  miles;   Alt.,  1066;   Pop.,  noo. 

Fernando  marks  the  site  of  Mission  San  Fernando,  Rey  de 
Espafia,  founded  by  Father  Francisco  Dumetz,  September  8, 
1797.  The  moutain  range  at  the  south  is  Sierra  de  Santa 
Monica,  with  Santa  Susanna  in  the  west,  northerly  the  San 
Fernando  Range,  and  the  famous  San  Gabriel  at  the  east. 

BURBANK— Ar.  O,,  2016  miles;   Alt.,  461;   Pop.,  500. 

Here  joins  the  line  recently  constructed  from  Montalvo  via 
Oxnard  and  Chatsworth  Park,  where  a  great  tunnel  has  been 
successfully  bored  through  the  mountain  range.  Burbank  is 
the  center  of  a  rich  farming  country,  enough  to  support  a 
city. 

Going  back  to  Montalvo,  we  follow  the  new  line  to  its 
junction  here. 

OXNARD— N.  O.,  2068  miles;    Pop.,  2800. 

The  site  six  years  ago  was  a  barley  field.  The  transforma- 
tion is  due  to  sugar-beets.  The  great  factory  here  produces 


32 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


Starting    from    the    Baths    a    long,    palm-shaded    boulevard    parallels    Santa 
Barbara    water    front. 

about  1,000  carloads  of  sugar  yearly,  and  can  crush  2,000  tons 
of  beets  daily.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  on  the  continent. 
Beans  and  walnuts  and  a  large  amount  of  grain  are  produced 
in  the  vicinity,  which  reaches  down  to  the  ocean.  Beet  pulp 
feeds  many  thousand  head  of  cattle. 

SOMIS— Ar.  O.,  2063  miles;  Alt.,  254. 

Overlooks  Las  Posas  Valley  and  the  ocean.  Beans,  nuts, 
deciduous  fruits,  barley,  corn,  wheat  and  oats  do  well  here. 

CHATSWORTH    PARK— N.  O.,  2034  miles;  Alt.,  956. 

The  Santa  Susanna  tunnel  is  here,  a  mile  and  a  half  long, 
a  doorway  between  the  San  Fernando  and  the  Santa  Clara 
Valleys.  It  shortens  the  line  six  miles  and  reduces  the 
grade.  Around  the  great  bore  is  an  old-fashioned  farming 
country,  looking  attractive  to  the  eye.  The  crop  returns  fill 
many  cars. 


WAYSIDE    NOTES 


33 


Oil  from  under  the  water  is  an  interesting  paradox  at  Summerland. 


Sepulveda — N.  O.,  2014  miles. 
West  Glendel — N.  O.,  2013  miles. 


Tropico — N.  O.,  2011  miles. 
River  Station — Suburban. 


Nearing  Los  Angeles  the  Pigeon  Farm  on  west  side  of 
track  contains  15,000  birds. 

ARCADE  DEPOT  -Lay  Anodes;  N.  O,,  ^006  miles;  Alt., 
293;  Pop.,  240,000. 

This  incoming  to  southern  Queen  City  has  been  along  the 
bank  of  Los  Angeles  River,  less  songful  now  than  when  it 
was  named  Porciuncula,  in  1769.  It  rises  in  the  San  Fer- 
nando and  the  San  Gabriel  Ranges  of  mountains,  and,  when 
it  flowed  bank-full,  emptied  into  San  Pedro  Bay. 

Deferring  the  consideration  of  Los  Angeles  and  its  tribu- 
taries, we  turn  now  to  the  wharf  at  foot  of  Market  Street, 
San  Francisco,  with  purpose  to  reveal  other  lines  of  Southern 
Pacific  Company  that  connect  the  metropolis  and  Central 
California  with  Los  Angeles. 


34  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

SAN    JOAQUIN    VALLEY    LINE 
San  Francisco  to  Los  Angeles 

SAN    FRANCISCO—  N.  O.,  2489  miles;  Alt.,  12;  Pop.,  435,000. 

If  such  is  the  choice,  the  eastward  start  can  be  from  a  ferry 
landing  at  foot  of  Market  Street,  fitting  gateway  to  the 
metropolis  of  the  Pacific. 

A  run  of  fifteen  minutes  on  a  safe  and  commodious  boat 
across  an  arm  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  brings  you  to  the 
waiting  train  at  outer  terminus  of  Southern  Pacific's  Oakland 
Pier. 

Look  back  and  see  the  lines  and  terraces  of  the  metropolis 
you  have  left — its  granite  walls  and  uplifted  dome  are 
replaced  and  the  vast  area  left  naked  by  the  great  fire  is 
covered  with  fine  buildings  again,  and  there  is  the  appear- 
ance and  impression  of  a  city.  With  thought  it  may 
be  of  severed  socialities,  give  it  your  benediction;  then, 
looking  across  Bay  water,  northerly  of  Golden  Gate,  Mt. 
Tamalpais,  its  hotel-crowned  summit  upon  occasion  reached 
by  you  within  a  ride  of  two  hours  of  boat  and  rail  from  San 
Francisco.  Fort  Alcatraz,  tide-washed  island  rock,  is  in  the 
middle  distance  as  you  view  Mt.  Tamalpais,  and  Angel  Island, 
northerly  from  it,  occupying  a  central  place  in  the  Bay. 

On  Goat  Island  the  Government  maintains  an  important 
naval  training  station  for  apprentices  and  a  lighthouse.  At 
the  wharf  will  be  seen,  in  passing,  the  veteran  sloop  of  war 
"Pensacola,"  one  of  Farragut's  old  squadron. 

The  French  have  a  saying  in  effect,  "It  is  the  first  step  that 
costs,"  but  on  this  trip  the  first  step  pays.  A  run  of  thirty 
miles  along  the  shore  of  island-gemmed  San  Francisco  Bay 
is  very  interesting. 

OAKLAND— S.  F.,  7  miles;   Pop.,  230,000. 

The  third  city  of  the  Pacific  Coast;  with  its  suburbs  from 
which  it  is  not  separated,  save  by  imaginary  lines,  perhaps  the 
second.  Its  channel  harbor  is  lined  with  great  manufactur- 
ing industries.  It  is  the  greatest  railway  center  of  the  West, 
and  its  manufacturing  and  distributing  business  grows  ac- 
cordingly. The  business  streets  are  being  lined  with  sky- 
scrapers. It  has  beautiful  residence  sections. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


35 


The  porch  at  Camulos,  scene  of  the  entrancing  romance,   "Ramona." 

BERKELEY—.?.  F.,  9  miles;  Alt.,  12;  Pop.,  100,000. 

Berkeley  directly  adjoins  Oakland,  with  which  it  is  closely 
connected,  the  intervening  space  having  been  rapidly  built  up. 
Facing  the  Golden  Gate,  it  rivals  Oakland  as  a  residential  city. 
UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA— In  this  city,  on  an  ele- 
vated bench,  the  buttress  of  a  range  of  hills,  is  located  the 
University  of  California,  richly  endowed  and  generously  fos- 
tered by  the  State.  On  the  material  side  there  is  likely  to 
be  no  want;  the  faculty  is  numerous  and  able — some  mem- 
bers of  it  with  world-wide  reputations;  and  the  student  roll, 
matter  of  pardonable  State  pride. 

RICHMOND— Between  Stege  and  San  Pablo.  In  six  years  a 
village  has  grown  here  to  a  city  of  10,000  through  the  location 
of  important  manufacturing  industries  along  its  deepwater 
frontage. 

Stege — S.  F.,  14  miles.  Selby — S.  F.,  28  miles.     Location  of 

San  Pablo — S.  F.,  18  miles,  extensive    reduction    and    refining 

Pinole — S.  F.,  24  miles.  works. 

Rodeo — S.  F.,  26  miles. 


36  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


VALLEJO    JUNCTION— S.  F.,  29  miles;   Alt,,  12. 

This  station  is  at  the  mouth  of  Carquinez  Strait,  connecting 
San  Pablo  and  Suisun  Bays  (local  names  for  waters  of  San 
Francisco  Bay).  It  is  about  ten  miles  long,  one  mile  wide, 
of  great  depth,  and  much  frequented  by  sea-going  vessels  for 
benefit  of  its  sweet  waters  in  removing  barnacles  from  their 
hulls. 

Across  the  mouth  is  Mare  Island,  naval  yard  of  the  United 
States,  located  and  established  by  Captain  Farragut  in  1854— 
a  place  of  growing  importance  with  our  expanding  Pacific 
ocean  interests. 

CROCKETT— S.  F.,  30  miles;  Alt.,  12. 

Here  is  a  large  beet-sugar  factory  and  refinery. 

MARTINEZ— S.  F.,  36  miles;    Pop.,  3000. 

This  is  the  county  town  of  Contra  Costa  and  is  well  located, 
backed  by  rounded  hills  and  fronted  by  the  Straits.  The 
climate  is  almost  ideal.  Hidden  valleys  are  picturesque  and 
are  watched  over  by  vine-clad  hills.  Farther  back  are  wheat 
and  much  deciduous  fruit.  It  is  a  good  region  for  the  farmer, 
while  on  the  bay  shore  are  various  manufactories. 

PORT    COSTA— S.  F.}  32  miles;   Alt.,  12;   Pop.,  600. 

Bay  Point — A  new  city,  to  be  Parting   of   the   ways.     Trains   for 

the    greatest    wood-working  continental  transit  via  Ogden,  and 

AStoSA.'r.tfSta.  as   wfll   those   for    all    the   world, 

Byron — S.  F.,  58  miles.  via    Portland,    Or.,    are    run    upon 

Brentwood—S.  F.,  63  miles.  steamer  Splano,  and  quickly  reach 

the    City    of    Benicia    on  the    opposite    bank.      For    the    San 

Joaquin  Valley  the  trains  skirt  the  north  shore,  traversing  a 
fine  part  of  the  county. 

BYRON    HOT    SPRINGS— 

Two  miles  from  Byron  station  are  located  the  celebrated 
Byron  Hot  Springs.  Antedating  the  arrival  of  Anglo-Saxons, 
these  thermal  waters  were  tested  by  the  red  man,  and  pro- 
nounced "good  medicine."  Pioneers  suspended  nugget  gather- 
ing to  garner  health  at  these  life-restoring  fountains.  From 
time  to  time,  during  the  past  half  century,  temporary  accom- 
modations and  appliances  have  been  superseded  by  others  of 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  37 

higher  class,  until,  under  the  present  management,  the  summit 
appears  to  have  been  reached.  With  view  to  broaden  the 
popular  field  of  the  springs,  so  as  to  include  recreation  and 
pleasure,  with  that  of  sanitation,  there  has  been  constructed  a 
sumptuous  hotel  in  attractive  Moorish  design,  richly  furnished 
and  offering  to  its  guests  every  luxury  of  modern  times.  Cot- 
tages for  invalids  who  court  seclusion,  are  also  provided;  and 
the  attendance  of  a  competent  physician,  to  any  who  may 
desire.  Carriages  connect  the  springs  with  the  station. 

MT.    DIABLO— S.  F.,  40  miles;   Alt.,  3896. 

Bethany— $   F    77  miles On    the    ri&ht    as    y°u    Pass    eastwardly 
'is  Mt.  Diablo,  altitude  3896,  with  double 

peaks.  Its  summit  easily  reached,  and  repays  the  effort  by 
its  magnificent  views.  Is  centrally  located  in  the  county. 

TRACY— 5.  F.,  83  miles;  Alt.,  64;  Pop.,  800. 

From  San  Francisco  the  approach  is  by  two  lines,  one  of 
them  that  is  herein  followed,  and  the  other,  also  from  San 
Francisco,  but  via  Niles  and  Livermore.  From  viewpoint  of 
arrival,  the  outgoings  are,  respectively,  to  the  right,  via  west 
side  San  Joaquin  to  junction  with  the  main  line  at  Fresno; 
,to  the  left,  for  Lathrop. 

SAN    LEANDRO— 5*.  F.,  16  miles;   Alt.,  48;   Pop.,  4000. 
Lorenzo— S  F    1 8  miles        Sari  Leandro  and  Lorenzo  are  wealth- 
producing    towns    largely    devoted    to 

manufactures  and  fruit  raising,  and  are  much  in  popular  favor 
for  country  places  by  business  men  of  the  metropolis. 

HAYWARD—  51.  F.}  21  miles;   Alt.,  74;   Pop.,  3500. 
Decoto-S.  F.,  27  miles.         Hay  ward   is   a   large   town,   beautifully 
situated    on    elevated    ground,    devoted 

to  fruit  and  the  entertainment  of  thousands  who  are  attracted 
by  its  virtues. 

Decoto  is  umbrageous  and  homelike,  with  merit  sufficient 
to  secure  the  Masonic  Home  for  benefit  of  fraters  and  their 
families — an  imposing  structure  on  sightly  elevation. 

NILES— S.  F.,  30  miles;  Alt.,  83. 

Noted  for  its  fine  and  extensive 
P/r/^L-'s'^t/miles.  nurseries.  Marks  a  point  of  railway 

junction;  to  the  right,  for  San  Jose; 
to  the  left,  for  Tracy,  via  Livermore.  This  we  follow. 


• 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  39 

The  start  for  Niles  is  a  plunge  into  a  romantic  canyon,  its 
lowest  level  the  bed  of  a  living  stream.  The  banks  on  each 
side  as  you  pass  upward  have  an  elevated  skyline,  and,  where 
not  occupied  by  picturesque  cottages  and  their  fruit  trees  and 
vines,  are  covered  by  a  generous  growth  of  flowering  shrubs 
and  trees,  including  madrono,  manzanita  and  laurel. 

At  Sunol  olive  parks  fill  much  of  the  foothill  space  at  the 
left. 

Pleasanton  finds  a  broader  valley  for  its  growth,  and  many 
hop  gardens,  vineyards  and  wineries  will  be  noted  in  the 
vicinity. 

LIVERMORE— S.  F.,  48  miles;   Alt.,  486;   Pop.,  1500. 

Livermore  is  an  important  town,  centrally  located  in  the 
valley  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  Its  commerce  and 
manufactures  are  of  notable  importance.  To  the  left  are  seen 
the  peaks  of  Mt.  Diablo,  and  the  surrounding  ridges  are  spurs 
of  the  Coast  Range.  Hay  and  wine-making  are  leading 

industries. 

* 

ALTAMONT— ,9.  F.,  56  miles;   Alt.,  740. 

Altamont   and    Midway   are   important 

Midway— S.F.,  64  miles.       to  those  who  operate  the  railway,  but 
Tracy — S.  F..  72  miles.  ,  ,  ,.  J)    . 

Banta—S.  F.,  86  miles.  not     largely     so     as     to     the     passing 

traveler.  A  tunnel  pierces  the  moun- 
tain spur,  and  passing  Midway  you  are  soon  in  the  valley  of 
San  Joaquin  at  Tracy,  on  opposite  side  the  station  from  that 
of  your  arrival  via  Port  Costa;  and  the  mileage  72  instead 
of  83.  Fuller  description  of  the  great  valley  we  have  tra- 
versed will  be  found  in  the  Southern  Pacific's  little  book, 
"The  San  Joaquin  Valley."  It  contains  96  pages,  well 
illustrated. 

TURLOCK— 5.  F.,  106  miles;   Alt.,  72;  Pop.,  2000. 

This  growing  town  is  along  the  Stanislaus  River.  When 
the  fathers  first  visited  San  Joaquin  Valley  (then  called 
Tulares)  they  were  met  by  an  important  Indian  chief  named 
Estanislaus;  this,  decapitated,  became  the  name  of  the  moun- 
tain stream.  The  irrigated  lands  here  are  filling  up  with 
settlers.  The  soil  is  rich  and  easily  worked. 


40 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The  old  Independence  at  Mare  Island  is  now  a  training  ship. 

MODESTO— S.  P.,  //_/  miles;    Alt.,  QT;    Pop.,  4000. 

Modesto,  a  center  of  trade  and  seat  of 

Tuolumne  Rtver  justice  for  County  of  Stanislaus,  is  on 

Leres — S.  r.,  119  miles.  ;,  ,.  L       i        r  *r«       1  T-»  • 

Turlock S.  F.,  127  miles.      the  northern  bank  of  Tuolumne  River, 

doubly  bridged  at  this  point,  and  some- 
times navigable  for  small  craft.  The  river  is  an  affluent  of 
San  Joaquin  and  rises  in  the  upper  fastnesses  of  the  Sierra. 
The  La  Grange  Dam  on  this  river  provides  water  for  the 
districts  of  Modesto  and  Turlock,  and  is  making  a  prosperous 
farming  community  on  both  banks  of  the  stream.  The  dam 
was  built  and  is  owned  by  farmers.  It  cost  $550,000. 

MERCED    RIVER—  S.  F.,  135  miles;  Alt.,  136. 

Here  the  famed  Merced  is  crossed. 
7l^af/r--sTF.  M;  mile's  '  Jt  carries  the  merest  thread  of  water, 

and  yet  that  is  all  utility  has  left  of 
the  abundant  floods  that  pour  down  .  the  granite  walls  o( 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


41 


Byron  Hot  Springs  where  the  Indian  long  ago  found  "good  medicine." 


Yosemite — a  tide  so  needful  to  the  parched  lands  of  San 
Joaquin  could  not  be  permitted  to  waste  itself  in  the  saline 
Bay  of  San  Francisco. 

At  cost  exceeding  three  millions,  by  private  enterprise, 
canals  were  cut  in  the  walls  of  Merced  Canon,  diverting  dams 
were  built,  and  a  storage  reservoir  created,  fitted  to  hold  in 
reserve  the  water  supply  of  a  season.  Then  mains  of  sub- 
stantial iron  and  canals  were  provided,  with  laterals  to  reach 
every  thirsty  acre  of  an  empire,  not  to  mention  a  supply 
system  for  the  city  of  Merced  that  lies  in  the  heart  of  the 
scheme. 

MERCED— 5.  F.,  152  miles;  Alt..,  171;  Pop.,  3500. 

This  city  and  the  country  tributary  to 
Mitt™-!.  F.'.^Smife"  *  enjoy  Merced  River  by  conquest.  In 

the  park  facing  the  station  grounds 
has  been  erected  a  granite  and  marble  fountain,  which  sends 


42 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The    Solano,    the    largest    ferry-boat    in    the    business. 

sparkling  showers  aloft  for  joy  of  all  beholders.  These 
laughing  waters,  in  voice  that  now  sings  small,  erstwhile 
thundered  at  base  of  Yosemite  cliffs;  no  memory  here  of 
their  mountain  birthplace,  its  bird  song,  its  whispering  pines 
and  floral  incense.  They  speak  not  of  Merced's  majestic 
plunge  at  Nevada  and  Vernal  Falls;  have  no  tradition  of 
stupendous,  awe-inspiring  Yosemite's  half-mile  leap  from 
sky  to  earth;  no  pride  of  descent  from  nuptial  beauty  of  irri- 
descent  Bridal  Veil.  All  these  to  this  fountain  water  are 
less  than  a  tale  that  is  told,  but  the  traveler  may  turn  his 
face  eastward  and  see  the  silver-crested  Sierra,  forming  the 
hundred-mile-distant  sky  line,  and  behold  the  mighty  labora- 
tory from  which  is  drawn  these  musical  raindrops  and  the 
wealth  of  a  State. 

SAN    JOAQUIN    RIVER— 5.  F.,  91  miles. 

This,  to  be  again  crossed  by  you  197  miles  from  San  Fran- 


WAYSIDE    NOTES  43 

cisco,  drains  the  western  watershed  of  a  section  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  equal  to  a  length 'of  270  miles.  It  also  includes  the 
entire  breadth  of  San  Joaquin  Valley  and  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Coast  Range,  thus  covering  no  less  than  twenty  thou- 
sand square  miles.  When  you  see  how  little  water  it  carries, 
it  will  be  an  act  of  justice  to  give  credit  for  having  paid 
irrigation  tribute  to  more  than  twenty  thousand  acres  of 
thirsty  farm  lands. 

LATHROP— S.  F.,  94  miles;  Alt.,  26;  Pop.,  300. 

Kt/*m-S.F.,  105  miles.        Although   not   a   large   town,    Lathrop 
has     always     occupied     an     important 

place  in  passenger  itineraries.  Of  signal  moment  is  a  junc- 
tion place  reached  by  three  lines — one  of  them  from  the 
southwest,  over  which  your  approach  was  made;  the  second 
from  the  south,  with  memories  of  Los  Angeles,  and  will  be 
traversed  by  you  in  outgoing;  the  third,  on  the  left  hand  at 
your  arrival,  points  the  way  to  Stockton,  a  large  and  import- 
ant city,  nine  miles  distant,  and  to  Sacramento,  the  capital  of 
the  State,  fifty-seven  miles  from  Lathrop.  Sacramento  is  on 
the  main  lines,  San  Francisco  to  Ogden,  and  San  Francisco 
to  Portland,  Oregon. 

YOSEMITE    VALLEY    and    MARIPOSA    BIG   TREES 

From  Merced  a  railroad  has  been  constructed  up  the 
Merced  River,  past  Merced  Falls,  to  El  Portal,  at  the  en- 
trance to  the  far-famed  Yosemite  Valley.  The  Mariposa 
Grove  of  Big  Trees  is  now  reached  from  Yosemite  Valley  by 
short  stage  ride.  Some  of  these  majestic  trees  are  400  feet 
high  and  are  the  oldest  living  things  on  earth.  The  Yosemite 
and  the  Big  Trees  are  fully  described  and  illustrated  in  a 
separate  folder.  The  new  line  in  connection  with  the 
Southern  Pacific,  lands  passengers  at  the  Park  Line. 

BERENDA— S.  F.}  178  miles;   Alt.,  256. 

From  Berenda  a  branch  line  runs  to  Raymond, 
Yosemite  twenty-one  miles  distant.  This  was  for  many  years 
the  route  to  the  Yosemite  Valley,  but  Yosemite  is  now 
reached  via  Merced  and  the  railroad  up  the  Canon. 


44  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


MADERA— S.  F.,  185  miles;   Alt.,  278;   Pop.,  2200. 

Borden-S.F.,^  miles.       Cou^    seat'      ,A"     important    wood- 
working   manufactory.       The     lumber 

used  is  cut  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  one  hundred  miles  away,  sent 
to  the  factory  by  water  in  a  V  flume,  the  sawed  lumber  with- 
drawn on  arrival,  and  the  water  made  to  irrigate  contiguous 
lands. 

SAN   JOAQUIN    RIVER    (2d   Crossing)— 5".  F.,   197  miles; 
Alt.,  298. 

The  bridge  is  elevated  and  gives  pic- 
&£*£=&  F:;  ?£  EaS  turesque  views  along  the  stream.  Gold 

in  small  quantities  has  been  taken 
from  its  sands  a  short  distance  above. 

FRESNO— 5\  P.,  207  miles;   Alt.,  293;   Pop.,  22,000. 

At  first  sight,  and  as  well  on  mature  acquaintance,  Fresno 
will  be  pronounced  a  fine  city.  Is  seat  of  government  of  a 
rich  county;  has  opulent,  enterprising  merchants  and  bankers 
and  extensive  manufactures.  Notable  among  the  latter, 
several  immense  establishments  for  seeding  raisins;  also 
creameries,  a  large  fruit-canning  factory  and  extensive 
winery.  It  has  machine  shops  and  wood-working  factory, 
flour  mills  and  mammoth  electrical  plant,  from  water  power 
in  the  Sierra.  The  output  of  fruit  and  wines  is  phenomenal; 
receipts  for  raisins  alone  reach  into  the  millions. 

Fresno  has  a  branch  line  of  24  miles  to  Pollasky,  near  the 
Sierra  Nevada  foothills,  via  Clovis,  and  a  loop  line,  104  miles 
to  Famoso,  a  station  on  the  main  line,  87  miles  south  of 
Fresno.  This  loop  line  reaches  a  rich  lumber,  agricultural, 
citrus  and  deciduous  fruit  country  along  the  base  of  the 
Sierra,  and  includes  the  important  towns  of  Sanger  Junction, 
Reedley,  Dinuba,  Exeter,  Lindsay  and  Porterville,  the  last 
three  also  reached  by  line  from  Visalia.  It  is  also  the  junc- 
tion point  of  the  West  Side  Line,  of  which  mention  was  made 
at  Tracy,  and  its  itinerary  will  now  be  given. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  45 

VALLEY    LINE—  WEST    SIDE 
WESTLEY—  5.  F.,  101  miles;   Alt.,  89. 

Crows  Landing-^.  F.,  113  miles.       Shortly  after  leaving  Tracy  the 

tram   will  pause,   and  then   pro- 

ceed, crossing  a  railway  track  at  an  obtuse  angle.  This  is  a 
line  running  from  Stockton  to  Corral  Hollow  Coal  Mines, 
located  in  the  Livermore  or  Mt.  Diablo  Coast  Range. 

Westley  and  Crows  Landing  occupy  important  places  in  a 
wheat-raising  district  traversed  by  the  railway  line,  and  east- 
wardly  bordered  by  San  Joaquin  River,  on  which  stands  the 
early-day  town  of  Crows  Landing. 

NEWMAN—  S.  F.,  120  miles;  Alt.,  91;  Pop.,  800. 

Newman  is  the  most  considerable  town  of  the  West  Side. 
Has  the  benefit  of  wealth  and  business  enterprise.  Large 
orchards  and  vinyards  tributary  to  it,  and  cereals  extensively 
cultivated.  Extending  southward  for  more  than  one  hundred 
miles  the  land  is  irrigated;  much  of  it  growing  alfalfa  for 
benefit  of  stock-raising.  As  you  traverse  this  "land  of  clover" 
it  will  be  a  delight  to  see  the  cropping  herds  on  its  perennial 
green. 

LINORA—  S.  F.,  127  miles. 

r      -B  c  -r,  .,          Linora    and    Los    Barios    testify    of 

LosBanos-S.  F.,  141  miles.       ^^  ^  ^^  but  the   cultivation 


of  wheat  and  other  cereals  and  of  vegetables  and  fruit  are  by 
no  means  neglected.  These  irrigated  lands  attract  water-fowl 
and  offer  heavy  bags  to  visiting  sportsmen.  During  the 
winter  months  the  landscape  is  white  with  countless  thou- 
sands of  wild  geese. 

DOS    PALOS—  S.  F.,  154  miles;  Alt.,  121. 

Contiguous    to    Dos    Palos    easterly, 
SSSBS^F^s'MS?:      on  bank  o*  San  Joaquin  River,  is  a 

populous  and  thrifty  settlement,  con- 

taining seyeral  hundred  inhabitants.  The  sportsman  will  not 
fail  to  notice  abundant  water-fowl  along  this  West  Side  Line. 
In  the  season  mallards,  widgeon  and  teal  are  flushed  by 
passing  trains. 


• 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  47 


Firebaugh  is  an  important  wool-shipping  point,  and  concen- 
tration of  live-stock  interests. 

Mendota,  terminus  of  trainmen's  run,  and  on  their  side  the 
subject  of  first  and  last  importance. 

KERMAN— S.  F.,  194  miles;    Alt.,  218;    Pop.,  500. 

Here  the  railway  divides:  one  branch,  to  the  right,  covers 
a  rich  country,  and  the  towns  of  McMullin,  Caruthers,  Lillis, 
Armona  and  Hanford,  and  returns  to  the  main  line  at  Goshen 
Junction,  a  distance  of  fifty-two  miles  south  of  Collis. 

The  branch  to  the  left  makes  a  run  of  fifteen  miles  to 
Fresno. 

The  observant  traveler  sees  almost  everywhere  in  San 
Joaquin  Valley  certain  broad  acres  of  Chilean  clover,  alfalfa 
or  lucerne,  an  invaluable  adjunct  to  general  farming,  and 
those  around  Kerman,  now  under  irrigation,  are  wonderfully 
productive.  Under  irrigation  it  may  be  cut  from  three  to  five 
times  a  year  for  hay,  and  pastured  during  the  winter  months. 

MALAGA— 5\  F.,  211  miles;   Alt.,  298. 

Fowler-S.  F.,  2i6  miles.  Within  twenty-five  miles  of  Fresno, 

Selma—S.  F.,  222  miles.  easterly,   on   Southern    Pacific    Com- 

Kingsburg — S.  F.,  227  miles,  pany's  main  line,  is  a  country  rich 
Traver—S.  F.,  232  miles.  in  the  products  of  husbandry,  with 
centers  of  commerce  at  convenient  distances.  These  are 
Malaga  (the  aroma  of  its  raisins  detected  in  the  name), 
Fowler,  Selma  and  Traver,  each  blessed  of  Ceres  and  of 
Pomona. 

KINGS    RIVER— S.  F.,  229  miles;   Alt.,  300. 

The  canons  on  the  South  Fork  and  the  Middle  Fork  of 
this  river  constitute  a  second  Yosemite,  well  worth  going 
to  see. 

GOSHEN    JUNCTION— 5\  F.,  241  miles;  Alt,,  286. 

This  claims  to  be  a  junction  merely,  but  its  associations  are 
of  the  best,  including  the  county  seats  of  both  Kings  and 
Tulare. 


48 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The  Fallen  Monarch — imperial   in   its   fall. 


Armona — S.  F.,  257  miles. 
Lemoore — S.  F.,  262  miles. 
Huron — S.  F.,  281  miles. 
Coalinga — S.  F.,  296  miles. 
Alcalde — S.  F.,  301  miles. 


HANFORD— S.  F.,  254  miles;   Alt.,  250;   Pop.,  5000. 

Thirteen  miles  westerly  from 
Goshen  Junction,  on  a  branch  line,  is 
the  city  of  Hanford,  county  seat  of 
Kings  County.  It  is  noted  for  mer- 
cantile energy  and  thrift,  fruit  and 
stock-raising;  general  farming  and  manufactures  are  also 
tributary  to  it.  The  city  is  substantially  built,  and  the  trav- 
eler can  find  rest  at  its  hotels,  chief  of  them  the  Artesia  and 
the  Aborn.  On  the  same  branch  line,  three  miles  westerly, 
is  the  thriving  fruit  center  called  Armona,  and  five  miles  be- 
yond, the  more  important  town  of  Lemoore.  A  further  run 
of  nineteen  miles  reaches  Huron;  fifteen  miles  to  Coalinga, 
and  five  to  the  terminus  at  Alcalde.  Near  Coalinga  is  a 
valuable  petroleum  field,  developing  large  output. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  49 

VISALIA — 5.  F.,  249  miles;    Alt.,  333;    Pop.,  5000. 

Farmers-vine—^.  F.,  255  miles.  On  branch  line,  eight  miles  from 

Exeter — S.  F.,  259  miles.  Goshen    Junction.      It    is    seat    of 

Lindsay— S.  F.,  269  miles  government     for     Tula're     County, 

P^™//.-S.F,276nnles.  *lanted  in  a  spedally  Hch  agricj: 

tural  and  fruit  district,  embowered  in  native  oaks.  It  has 
much  civic  pride,  resulting  in  clean,  well-paved  streets,  and 
sidewalks  of  artificial  stone  and  asphalt.  The  public  buildings 
are  highly  creditable,  with  special  mention  of  the  court-house. 
The  banks  and  commercial  marts  are  well  housed,  and  on  the 
hotel  side,  there  is  civic  pride  in  "Palace,"  but  others  also  are 
not  wanting. 

SANGER—  S.  F.,  221  miles;  Alt.,  370. 

A  branch  road  from  Fresno  skirts  the  east  side  foothills. 
Sanger  is  a  lumber  town  and  connected  by  a  great  flume 
with  the  mountain  forests. 

REEDLEY—  S.  F.,  231  miles;  Alt.,  349. 

A  horticultural  town,  with  good  schools  and  churches, 
general  stores,  a  bank  and  weekly  paper. 

DINUBA—  S.  F.,  237  miles;  Alt.,  335. 

In  Alta  Irrigation  District,  and  a  region  of  alfalfa,  vines 
and  fruit  trees. 

EXETER—  S.  F.,  267  miles;   Alt.,  327. 
LINDSAY—^.  F.,  260  miles;    Alt.,  319. 

PORTERVILLE— S.  F.,  276  miles;   Alt.,  335. 

These  are  growing  orange  towns  and  are  great  producers 
of  early  oranges  of  highest  quality,  and  the  country  tribu- 
tary to  them  is  of  the  best.  Indeed,  this  promises  to  rival 
Redlands  and  Riverside  as  an  orange  district.  Freedom  from 
mists  and  frosts  and  remoteness  from  the  sea  make  the 
region  almost  ideal. 

Visalia.and  Exeter  are  points  of  departure  for  the  great 
Giant  Forest  of  Big  Trees  and  the  wonderful  Kings  River 
and  Tehipite  Canons  which  rival  the  Yosemite  in  their 
grandeur.  An  electric  line  runs  from  Exeter  to  Lemon  Cove 
and  connects  with  stage  line. 


50 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


Kings  River  Canyon  should  be  the  Mecca  of  every  sportsman. 

Main  Line 

TULARE— 5\  F.,  251  miles;   Alt.,  282;   Pop.,  3000. 

Tulare  enjoys  an  active  and  health- 

pffi^i  *::**£$£  *ul  business  life,  its  surrounding 

Delano — S.  F.,  282  miles.  lands  tributary  in  cereals,  fruit  and 

Famoso—S.  F.,  294  miles.  stock.  Tulare  gives  a  generous 

OUJunction—S3(F.^3i Smiles.  response  when  called  upon  for  the 

varied  productions  that  go  to 

make  up  the  ideal  of  general  farming.  Much  of  the  land  is 
wooded  in  oaks  of  rare  beauty — wide-spreading  and  stately. 

KERN    RIVER—  S.  F.,  312  miles;    Alt.,  410. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  valued  irrigation  rivers  of  San 
Joaquin  Valley;  head  waters  of  it  fed  by  glaciers  of  Mt. 
Whitney.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  Edward  M.  Kern,  the 
topographer  of  Fremont's  second  trip  to  California,  in  the 
year  1846. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  51 

BAKERSFIELD—  S.  F.,  314  miles;  Alt.,  415;  Pop.,  10,000. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  this  beautiful  city 

Wade  —  S.  F.,  321  miles.         lies  hidden  from  view  of  passing  tour- 

Pampa—S.  F.,  329  miles.        Jst      behind      a      mile-deep      screen      of 

luxuriant  trees. 

A  county  town,  with  notable  courthouse,  hotels,  banks, 
opera  houses,  churches  and  substantial  business  blocks.  The 
great  breadth  of  irrigated  land  about  it  gives  assurance  of 
future  prosperity.  A  branch  line  of  railway  leads  to  Asphalto, 
McKittrick  and  Olig,  fifty  miles  westerly. 

From  Oil  Junction  a  six-mile  branch  runs  to  Oil  City,  at 
which  are  phenomenal  developments  of  petroleum.  Im- 
portant acquisitions  of  oil  have  also  been  made  in  the  Sunset 
district,  and  as  well  in  vicinity  of  McKittrick,  all  tributary 
to  Bakersfield  in  business  way. 

CALIENTE—  Alt.,  1290;   S.  F.,  336  miles. 

This  is  somewhat  beyond  the  head  of 

Bealville  —  S.  F.,  342  miles.  San  Joaquin  Valley,  but  is  frequently 
Keene—S.  F  350  miles  so  accredited,  because  here  begins 

Gir'ard-^F^lm^  the  climb  of  Tehachapi.  The  stream 

at  Caliente  is  Agua  Caliente  Creek. 

TEHACHAPI—  S.  F.,  362  miles;   Alt.,  4025. 

The  town  and  valley  in  which  it  is 
Cammm-S.  F.,  37,  miles.        ^^  ^  mountam  sheltered.  Your 


advent  has  been  by  pass  from  the  north,  and  departure 
will  be  southward  to  Mojave.  Tehachapi  markets  no  little 
grain  and  hay,  and  makes  fine  showing  in  the  production  of 
stock. 

MOJAVE^-S.  F.,  382  miles;  Pop.,  600;   Alt.,  2751. 

When  the  roll  of  deserts  is  being 

Rosamond—  S.F.,  396  miles.  called,  Mojave  now  refuses  to  an- 
pSSSS^ft&SSS:  '  swer.  Under  the  benign  influence  of 

irrigation  —  some  of  it  from  mountain 

sources  and  some  from  artesian  wells  —  portions  of  this  valley 
begin  to  respond  in  cereals,  fruits  and  flowers.  This  will  be 
noted  at  Rosamond,  Lancaster  and  Palmdale.  Of  these, 
Lancaster  has  been  most  energetic,  the  underlying  artesian 
water  showing  no  sign  of  exhaustion.  The  Hotel  Eating 


52  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


House  at  Mojave  is  one  of  the  best.     The  railway  divergent 
eastward  is  Santa  Fe. 

LANG— S.  F.,  440  miles;  Alt.,  1687. 

This  station  has  a  romantic  situation  in  Soledad  Canon, 
with  towering  San  Gabriel  Mountain  range  at  the  east,  in 
its  fulness  to  become  San  Bernardino. 

Passing  down  this  canon  of  sunshine  and  shade,  here  and 
there  are  seen  orchards,  gardens,  apiaries,  farmsteads,  and  at 
its  mouth  Santa  Clara  River  and  Valley,  each  terminating 
with  Pacific  tide  water,  fifty  miles  westward. 

SAUGUS— S.  F.,  452  miles;  Alt.,  1160. 

This  is  junction  point  with  Coast  Line  heretofore  visited 
by  us,  and  we  now  pass  on  to  Los  Angeles. 

LOS    ANGELES— N.  0.,  2006  miles;   Pop.,  250,000;   Alt.,  293. 
Pueblo  to  Reina  de  Los  Angeles 

This  was  the  full  original  title  of  California's  southern  me- 
tropolis, well  befitting  the  dolce  far  niente  Spaniard,  who  had 
all  the  time  there  was.  The  short  circuited  Anglo-Saxon, 
with  minimum  faith  in  Reinas,  drops  all  except  the  Angeles. 
It  was  founded  September  4,  1781,  with  12  heads  of  families, 
numbering  46  persons;  under  favoring  skies  and  the  rich 
fostering  of  Mother  Earth  it  has  grown  apace  to  the  quarter 
million  mark,  with  evident  intention  of  imperial  expansion  to 
absorption,  certainly  of  Santa  Monica,  and  of  San  Pedro, 
probably. 

No  city  of  modern  times  is  better  or  more  favorably 
known;  projected  on  lines  of  beauty,  with  curves  and  angles, 
streets  well  metaled  and  cleanly,  traversed  by  commodious 
and  flying  cars;  attractive  parks,  ^perennially  floral  and 
umbrageous,  inviting  to  rest  and  self-communing,  with  prom- 
ise that  Time  shall  wait  your  pleasure;  stately  municipal 
buildings,  set  aloft,  where  the  conservators  of  urban  happi- 
ness may  have  their  entire  charge  under  observation;  streets 
bordered  by  high-class  business  blocks  of  material  to  endure. 


WAYSIDE    NOTES  53 

SUNSET    ROUTE 
Los  Angeles  to  New  Orleans 

The  departure  from  Los  Angeles  to  the  east  is  across  a 
bridge,  over  the  bed  of -a  river — the  bed  only  being  left  by 
irrigable  lands  thirsty  for  water.  This  river  rises  in  the  San 
Fernando  and  San  Gabriel  Mountain  ranges,  northerly,  and 
when  it  carries  water,  delivers  it  at  San  Pedro  Bay.  The 
original  name  of  the  stream  130  years  ago  was  Porciuncula, 
but  at  an  early  day  became,  as  it  now  is,  the  Los  Angeles. 

Southerly  from  Los  Angeles  the  mountains  are  Santa  Ana. 
Of  the  many  attractive  places  encircling  Los  Angeles,  in 
brief  phrase  a  few  shall  now  be  indicated. 

SANTA    MONICA—  Los  Angeles,  17   miles;    Alt.,  41;    Pop., 
7500. 

Santa   Monica  is   a  valued   sub- 

Clement  Junction— L.  A.,  2  miles.       urban    resort    of    Los  .Angeles, 
&t«^LLAA,45mmneSs.  not  less  so  because  of  proximity 

Cienega — L.  A.,  7  miles.  than  varied  merits.   The  location 

Surf—L.  A.  10  miles.  is  an  elevated  bluff  of  the  ocean, 

1  he  Palms — L.  A.,  12  miles.  _nj  i___  fi__  11Cna1  aHi'nn^fc  nf 

Home  Junction— L.  A.,  13  miles.  and  ,has  the  usual  adjuncts  Ot 

Soldiers'  Home— L.  A.,  15  miles.  popular  watering  places.  Both 

electric  and  steam  transit  fur- 
nish communication  with  the  beaches. 

Hotels  and  boarding-houses,  so  important  to  visitors,  are 
in  endless  variety.  The  seaward,  gently  shelving  beach  to 
bathers,  and  the  recently  constructed  surf-water  wharf  for 
angling,  constantly  draw  enthusiastic  crowds. 

Just  below  Santa  Monica  are  Ocean  Park,  which  has  be- 
come a  seaside  city  with  large  business  and  residential  popu- 
lation, and  Venice,  a  "City  of  Pleasure,"  and  of  beauty,  like 
its  prototype.  Here  sports  and  festivities  of  all  kinds  may 
be  found  and  a  considerable  permanent  population  has  been 
drawn  to  it  by  its  many  attractions. 

Venice,  like  Venus,  was  born  of  the  sea,  with  the  gift  of 
a  marvelous  beauty.  Young  as  it  is,  it  is  a  complete  city, 
constructed  upon  Venetian  and  Parisian  lines,  with  lagoons, 
canals,  arcades,  music  pavilions,  auditorium,  ship  hotel,  and 
a  score  of  other  allurements.  It  has  become  the  chief  recrea- 
tion center  of  Southern  California,  and  a  residential  seaside 
resort  as  well.  It  is  but  a  short  distance  from  Santa  Monica. 


I 


WAYSIDE    NOTES  55 

Ocean  Park  adjoins  both  and  is  another  wonderful  illus- 
tration of  enterprise  and  of  rapid  growth  of  a  substantial 
character.  It  has  a  fine  theatre  and  Masonic  Hall,  banks, 
churches,  schools,  a  fine  bathing  pavilion  and  beach,  and  an 
assessed  valuation  of  a  million. 

PORT    LOS    ANGELES— Los  Angeles,  20  miles;   Alt.,  25. 

Three-mile,  deep-sea  wharf,  which  incidentally  invites  and 
rewards  a  continuous  line  of  anglers,  desirous  of  tempting 
nobler  game  than  can  be  captured  in  the  surf. 

PASADENA — Los  Angeles,  12  miles;    Alt.,  826;    Pop.,  20,000. 

From  Arcade  Depot  six  or  more 
lA^omne,  trains  daily  are  scheduled  for 

Pasadena,  with  returning  ser- 
vice to  correspond.  The  urban  beauty  and  social  atmosphere 
of  this  city  of  refined  homes  must  be  seen  and  breathed  to  be 
fully  appreciated. 

MT.  LOWE— Alt.,  6000  feet. 

From  station  door  of  Southern  Pacific 
YEechAolPMolnMnHnouSe  Company  at  Pasadena  an  electric  car 

can  be  taken  to  Mt.  Lowe,  distant  less 

than  sixty  minutes.  The  instep  of  the  mountain's  foot  being 
reached,  the  cable  incline  railway  gives  safe  and  exciting 
transit  to  Echo  Mountain,  3500  feet  above  ocean-level.  Hence 
by  railway  upward  1500  feet  to  "Ye  Alpine  Tavern,"  where 
suitable  refreshments  are  not  wanting,  and  thence  by  patient 
saddle  animals  to  mountain  fastnesses  above. 

SAN    PEDRO— Los  Angeles,  22  miles;   Alt.,  12;   Pop.,  3500. 

From    Arcade    Depot    the    cars    of 

Vernondale—L.  A.,  3  miles.  Southern  Pacific  Company,  in  a  fifty- 
Florence — L.  A.,  5  mites.  minute  run,  reach  San  Pedro,  where 

cTJpTon-b  A.;  ?.1S£.  the  United  States  Government  is  con- 
Cerritos— L.  A.,  14  miles.  structing  a  granite  breakwater  that 

Wilmington — L.  A.,  20  miles.     WJH   be   priceless   to   commercial    in- 
terests. 

AVALON    and    SANTA    CATALINA    ISLAND 

Avalon,  on  the  island  of  >Santa  Catalina,  is  distant  from  San 
Pedro  three  hours  of  safe  and  usually  pleasant  stealing. 


56 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


Los    Angeles,    California's    southern    metropolis. 

This  is  crystallized  fairyland;  the  placid  and  translucent 
waters  teem  with  every  form  of  marine  algae  and  piscine  life. 
Here,  if  anywhere  on  earth,  is  the  place  to  acquire  the  reputa- 
tion of  successful  angler.  Atmospheric  and  terra  firma  at- 
tractions are  in  harmony  with  the  ocean's  profusion.  "Any 
place  to  stop?"  No  end  of  them — from  "tent  on  the  beach" 
to  luxurious  Hotel  Metropole. 

LONG    BEACH — Los  Angeles,  21  miles;  Alt.,  24;  Pop.,  21,000. 

The  twenty-one  miles  from  Ar- 
cade Depot,  marginally  indicated 
hereon,  are  covered  by  train  in 
forty-five  minutes.     It  is  a  most 
restful,  quiet  seaside,  held  in  great  esteem  by  guardians  for 
their  wards,  for  the  genius  of  sobriety  and  good  order  pre- 
sides over  it,  assisted  by  annual  sessions  of  Chautauqua. 
The  city  fathers   have   extended  a   promenade   and   fishing 


Clement  Junction — L.  A.,  2  miles. 
Florence — L.  A.,  5  miles. 
Compton — L.  A.,  10  miles. 
Thenard — L.  A.,  13  miles. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


57 


In  a  Los  Angeles  Park. 

wharf  to  and  beyond  the  outer  surf  line,  for  enjoyment  of 
lovers  of  the  "gentle  craft,"  and  in  all  reasonable  ways  are 
presenting  attractions  to  young  and  old.  As  at  other  resorts 
named,  ample  provision  is  made  for  public  entertainment. 

SANTA    ANA— Los  Angeles, 

Florence — L.  A.,  5  miles.  Succulent 
clover  and  lowing  herds. 

Vinvale — L.  A.,  9  miles. 

Downey — L.  A.,  n  miles.  Flowers 
and  fruit,  promise  and  fruition. 

Studebaker — L.  A.,   14  miles. 

Norwalk — L.    A.,    15    miles. 

Carmenita — L.  A.,  18  miles. 

Buena  Park — L.  A.,  21  miles. 

Almond — L.  A.,  22  miles. 

Brookshurst — L.  A.,  23  miles. 

ANAHEIM —Alt.,  133;  L.  A.,  25 
miles.  Anaheim  is  a  large  pro- 
ducer of  wine,  nuts,  fruit  and 
sugar-beets. 


32  miles;  Alt.,  134;  Pop.,  8000. 

Miraflores — L.  A.,  27  miles. 
Orange — L.   A.,   30  miles.     Is  not  a 

misnomer. 

Newport — L.   A.,   44  miles. 
Smeltser — L.   A.,    55   miles. 

Branch  from  Loara  to 
Los  Alamitos 

Loara — L.  A.,  24  miles. 

Benedict — L.  A.,  29  miles. 
.Los  Alamitos — L.  A.,  34  miles.  Na- 
ture's invitation  to  sugar-beet  cul- 
ture is  accepted  with  profit.  A 
beet-sugar  factory  of  large  capa- 
city in  successful  operation. 


58 


SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 


Santa    Monica,    sunny   and   popular. 

Santa  Ana  is  the  proud  seat  of  government  for  Orange 
County,  and  revels  in  floral  and  fruit  prosperity.  The  city  is 
well  built,  with  many  fine  blocks  of  enduring  materials;  in 
urban  and  suburban  districts  are  private  homes  of  refinement 
and  elegance.  The  country  covered  by  the  railway  to  Santa 
Ana  from  Los  Angeles,  and,  as  well,  the  tributary  fields  im- 
mediately surrounding  it,  are  under  high  cultivation  in  citrus 
and  deciduous  fruits,  vines,  almonds,  English  walnuts,  sugar- 
beets,  vegetables  and  grain.  The  wine  output  is  large,  and 
grazing  and  dairy  interests  are  actively  fostered. 

WHITTIER— Los  Angeles,  20  miles;   Alt.,  240;   Pop.,  4,000. 

Fulton  Wells — L.  A.,  16  miles.  Well-        Los  Nietos — L.  A.,  17  miles.  Walnuts 
approved  watering  place.  for  the  world. 

Whittier  is  a  high-class,  prosperous  and  well-governed  city. 
It  is  seat  of  a  juvenile  reformatory,  established  by  the  State. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


59 


The  Lagoon  at  Venice,  a  recreation  resort. 

Branch  from  Miraflores 


Marlboro — L.   A.,   30  miles. 
Wanda — L.  A.,  33  miles. 
McPherson — L.  A.,  34  miles. 
El  Modena — L.   A.,   35   miles. 


Tustin — L.  A.,  38  miles.  An  arti- 
ficial wilderness  of  walnuts  and 
citrus  and  deciduous  fruits. 


SAN  DIEGO— Los  Angeles,  126  miles;  Alt.,  15;  Pop.,  30,000. 
From  Los  Angeles  this  growing  and  attractive  city  is  reached 
by  line  of  Santa  Fe  Coast  Line.  The  wayside  attractions,  not 
to  name  its  orange  groves  and  walnut  parks,  include  the  pathetic 
ruins  of  Mission  San  Juan  Capistrano,  founded  November  1, 
1776.  The  ruins  will  reward  the  trouble  of  inspection.  The 
following  fifty  miles  overlook  the  ocean  beach. 

MISSION  SAN  DIEGO  ALCALA 

San  Diego  has  perennial  attractions,  chief  of  these  on  the 
romantic  side  the  remains  of  Mission  San  Diego  de  Alcala, 


60  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

founded  by  Father  Serra,  July  16,  1769,  first  born  of  a  mission 
family  of  twenty-one. 

The  city's  architectural  achievements  are  numerous,  its 
street  railways  admirable,  and  commercial  enterprise  of  the 
first  order.  Dearer,  however,  to  the  transient  pilgrim  are  its 
numerous  and  well-appointed  hotels;  best  known  of  them  the 
world  over  and  held  in  high  esteem,  the  famed  Del  Coronado. 
Enviable  he  who  has  not  already  enjoyed  its  hospitality,  for 
a  new  sensation  awaits  him. 

Resuming   the    main    line    eastward    trip    at    Los    Angeles. 

Dolgeville — Alt.,    459;     N.    O.,    2000  Alhambra — Alt.,  425;    N.  O.,  1998  m. 

miles.       From    here    branch    lines  Aurant — Alt.,   364;     N.    O.,   2003  m. 
reach     Pasadena,     Monrovia     and 
Duarte. 

SAN    GABRIEL—  N.  O.,  1997  miles;   Alt.,  409;   Pop.,  1500. 

MISSION    SAN    GABRIEL 

Resuming  eastward  journey  at  Los  Angeles,  San  Gabriel  is 
first  station  of  note  reached.  A  short  distance  westerly  of  the 
station  is  the  revered  Mission  San  Gabriel.  It  was  founded 
by  Fathers  Somera  and  Cambon,  September  8,  1771.  It  was 
a  powerful  factor  in  the  settlement  of  California  by  Spaniards, 
and  on  more  than  one  occasion  came  generously  to  the  assist- 
ance of  the  less  fortunate. 

Savanna — Alt,    296;     N.    O.,     1994       Monte — Alt.,  286;  N.  O.,  1993  miles, 
miles. 

Near  Bassett  a  long  bridge  is  crossed,  spanning  the  bed  of 
San  Gabriel  River,  that  rises  in  Mt.  San  Antonio,  in  San 
Gabriel  Range,  and  empties  into  San  Pedro  Bay.  Ancient 
San  Gabriel  Mission  utilized  this  stream.  Its  waters  are  now 
all  withdrawn  for  irrigation  uses. 

Bassett — Alt.,     289;      N.     O.,     1990  Lemon — N.   O.,    1981   miles. 

miles.     At  Bassett  a  loop  line,  via  Spadra — Alt.,   705;     N.   O.,    1979   m. 

Covina,  extends  to  Pomona,  here-  Small     stream,     San    Jose     Creek, 

tofore  noted.  runs  past  Puente  and  empties  into 

Puente — Alt.,   323;    N.   O.,    1987   m.  Puente  Creek  and  San  Pedro  Bay. 

MONROVIA   AND   DUARTE 

Dolgeville — L.  A.,  5  miles.  Chapman — L.   A.,    n   miles. 

North  Alhambra — L.  A.,  6  miles.  Arcadia — L.  A.,  13  miles. 

San  Marino — L.  A.,  8  miles.        .  Monrovia — L.  A.,   15  miles. 

Sunny  Slope — L.  A.,   ip  miles.  Duarte — L.   A.,    17   miles. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  61 

Whoso  seeks  a  sylvan  paradise  will  find  it  on  this  seventeen- 
mile  trip.  The  laden  branches  of  bloom  or  fruit  (it  may  be 
both)  of  orange  and  lemon  will  invade  the  car  windows  in 
generous  greeting. 

Loop  from  Bassett  to  Pomona  on  Main  Line 

Vineland — L.   A.,    18  miles.  Erwindale — L.  A.,  19  miles. 

CO  VINA— Los  Angeles,  24  miles;    Alt.,  565;   Pop.,  2300. 
c      n.          T     A  A  visit  to  the  productive  groves  of 

Laonrd7burg-L .' t' v  mfe*'       Covina  will  justify  any  reasonable 

cost    of    time    and    treasure.      Its 
orange  output  is  phenomenal  in  quantity  and  excellence. 

POMONA— N.  O.,  1973  miles;  Alt.,  857;  Pop.,  7500. 

This  beautiful  city,  dedicated  to  Pomona,  seems  blest  of 
Providence  in  well-deserved  fame  for  its  fruitage,  and  its  still 
more  precious  social  life.  The  city  abounds  in  citrus  trees, 
and  for  miles  around  are  groves  of  oranges  and  lemons, 
with  sturdy  figs  and  swaying  willowy  olives,  walnuts,  al- 
monds and  deciduous  fruits. 

ONTARIO— N.  O.,  1967  miles;   Alt.,  981;   Pop.,  4500. 

Ontario  is  enriched  by  successful  horticulture;  the  intel- 
lectual and  social  atmosphere  is  of  the  highest,  and  much 
pride  is  taken  in  its  avenues  and  drives,  shaded  by  drooping 
pepper  and  other  ornamental  trees. 

North  of  Ontario  the  mountain  range  is  San  Gabriel,  and 
the  near-by  peaks  are  buttresses  of  Mt.  San  Antonio. 

CHINO— Alt.,  513;  Pop.,  1000. 

Chino  is  centrally  located  on  a  ten-mile  loop-line,  with  ter- 
minals at  Pomona  and  Ontario.  A  rich  agricultural  section 
is  tributary  to  it;  and  it  has  a  large  producing  beet-sugar 
section. 

Declez — Alt.,    1022;   N.   O.,    1958  m.  Cucamonga — Alt.,  952;    N.  O.,   1964 

Location    of   granite    quarry    from  miles, 

which  the  stone  is  being  supplied  Ailsa — N.  O.,  195 7  miles, 
for  San  Pedro  harbor  making. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  63 

BLOOMINGTON— N.  O.}  1953  miles;   Alt.,  1083. 

Near  here  is  a  great  vineyard  of  many  thousand  acres. 
Northward  are  the  orange  groves  of  Rialto  and  Colton 
terrace. 

COLTON— N.  0.,  1948  miles;  Alt.,  965;  Pop.,  3000. 

Colton  is  the  central  figure  in  a  famous  circle,  the  segments 
of  which  are  connected  by  lines  of  Southern  Pacific  Company. 
To  the  south,  queenly  Riverside,  eight  miles  distant,  north 
three  miles  to  San  Bernardino,  east  eight  miles  to  Redlands, 
and  against  such  rivalry  bears  itself  bravely.  To  the  north  and 
east,  towering  above  their  buttressing  satellites,  may  be 
seen  the  (usually  snow-clad)  ridge  or  back  of  Mt.  San 
Gorgonio  and  the  peak  of  Mt.  San  Bernardino.  At  Colton 
citrus  fruit  growing  culminates  in  high  success,  it  having 
been  the  traveler's  companion  from  extreme  northern  borders 
of  the  State. 

RIVERSIDE—  Colton,  8  miles;    Alt,  925;    Pop.,  12,000. 

On  many  accounts  Riverside  is  a  place  delightful  and  in- 
structive to  visit.  The  city  itself  is  an  orange  grove;  mar- 
velous avenues  have  been  created,  bordered  by  magnolias, 
peppers  and  palms,  accented  here  and  there  by  homes,  repre- 
senting highest  modern  cultivation;  and,  stretching  away 
from  the  city's  center  miles  of  distance  at  all  points  of  the 
compass,  ranks  on  ranks  of  fruit-bearing  trees,  orange  and 
lemon  groves  in  the  lead,  but  leading  only,  for  hardly  can 
any  earthly  fruit  be  called  for  without  response  at  Riverside; 
and  with  these,  floral  and  architectural  beauty,  and  the  cheer- 
ful, social  atmosphere  that  burnishes  the  golden.  From  the 
main  line  at  Colton  the  transit  of  eight  miles  is  but  a  step, 
and  a  right  royal  one.  Southern  Pacific  Company's  depot,  in 
heart  of  the  city,  is  an  opal  set  in  gold — tourists  should  make 
inspection  of  it;  and  well  worthy  special  mention  the  seven- 
mile  Magnolia  Avenue  now  traversed  by  luxurious  electric 
cars,  at  small  cost;  the  city  point  of  departure,  at  entrance  of 
new  Glenwood  Hotel,  one  block  from  Southern  Pacific  Com- 
pany's depot.  On  this  model  electric  line,  in  the  city  suburbs, 
the  general  government  has  purchased  a  fine  tract  of  land  and 
created  an  Indian  school. 


64  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

SAN    BERNARDINO— Colton,  3  miles;  Alt.,  975;  Pop.,  15,000. 

San  Bernardino  is  achieved  by  a  three-mile  ride  from 
Colton,  or  it  may  be  inspected  by  a  stop-over  en  route  to  or 
from  Redlands.  It  is  the  oldest  urban  place  in  San  Ber- 
nardino Valley,  is  seat  of  government  for  its  namesake  county, 
and  in  manufacturing,  mercantile  and  banking  interests  stands 
well  at  the  front.  It  is  center  of  a  valuable  citrus  and  de- 
ciduous fruit  section,  and  headquarters  for  tourists'  visits  to 
Squirrel  Inn,  Little  Bear  Valley,  Harlem  Hot  Springs,  Mid- 
way Springs  and  the  famous  Arrowhead  Hot  Springs,  named 
by  a  Brobdignagian  arrowhead  painted  by  the  hand  of  nature 
on  the  mountain  side.  The  St.  Charles  and  the  Stewart 
Hotels  are  favored  places  of  entertainment.  Electric  rail- 
ways run  to  the  springs  and  neighboring  towns.  The  South- 
ern Pacific  has  a  line  to  Redlands. 

In  the  suburbs  of  Colton,  shortly  after  leaving,  the  train 
passes  a  long  bridge,  spanning  the  dry  bed  of  a  watercourse 
rapidly  growing  up  to  tangles  of  brushwood.  Before  the 
advent  of  irrigation,  this  was  Santa  Ana  River,  with  fountain 
head  in  San  Bernardino  Mountains. 

LOMA    LINDA— Alt.,  1055;  N.  O.,  1945  wiles. 

Immediately  after  crossing  the  Santa  Ana  beautiful  Loma 

Linda,  celebrated  sanitarium,  is  to  be  seen  to  the  west. 

Redlands  Junction — Alt.,  1142;  N.O., 
1943  miles.  Branch  line  of  South- 
ern Pacific  Company  to  Redlands. 

REDLANDS — Redlands  Junct.,  3  miles;   Alt. ,1350;  Pop. ,10,000. 

From  Colton  this  unique  city,  distant  eight  miles,  may  be 
visited,  either  by  train  over  Southern  Pacific  Company's  main 
line,  via  Redlands  Junction,  or  by  motor  of  same  company, 
via  the  city  of  San  Bernardino.  Whichever  route  you  take, 
you  will  be  glad  of  it. 

In  some  sort,  Redlands  is  an  after-thought  of  Riverside. 
Orange-growing  successes  at  the  latter  could  hardly  fail  on 
the  rich,  chocolate-colored  lands  of  this  place. 

Smiley   Heights   is   a   suburban   attraction   of   Redlands   and   a 
most  restful  and  satisfying  example  of  landscape  gardening 
in   its   maturity. 
El  Casco — Alt.,    2420;     N.    O.,    1934        Brookside — Alt.,    1310;    N.   O.,   1941 

miles.  miles. 

Hinda — Alt,   2189;     N.   O.,    1930   m. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  65 

Mt.  San  Bernardino,  at  the  north,  usually  snow-crowned, 
with  11,800  feet  altitude,  is  seen  from  the  cars,  beginning  as 
far  west  as  Los  Angeles,  and  will  be  seen  until  Indio  is 
reached. 

Mt.  San  Gorgonio  (popularly  Gray  Back)  is  companion  to 
Mt.  San  Bernardino,  with  12,600  feet  altitude. 

BEAUMONT— AT.  O.,  1925  miles;   Alt.,  2560. 

Beaumont  covers  the  crest  of  San  Gorgonio  Pass — a  name 
given  to  a  broad  cleft  from  east  to  west,  separating  the  San 
Bernardino  Range,  that  occupies  the  skyline  at  the  north, 
•from  the  San  Jacinto  Range,  that  fills  the  field  of  southern 
vision.  This  pass,  crowned  by  Beaumont,  connects  the  val- 
ley of  which  Los  Angeles  is  metropolis  with  the  ancient  sea- 
bed, on  border  of  which  Indio  has  been  planted. 

BANNING— N.  O.,  1919  miles;  Alt.,  2317;  Pop.,  1000. 

Banning  in  most  respects  is  in  harmony  with  Beaumont, 
with  perhaps  some  advantage  in  fruit  production.  In  the 
south  is  Mt.  San  Jacinto,  altitude  10,800,  its  northern  but- 
tresses closely  skirted  by  the  train  as  it  passes  on  its  east- 
ward mission.  Mt.  San  Jacinto,  in  romance  the  scene  of 
Alessandro's  murder,  in  presence  of  Ramona,  his  wife. 

CABAZON— N.  O.,  1913  miles;   Alt.,  1779. 

Fingal — Alt.,   1372;    N.  O.,   1909  miles. 

Cabazon  serves  a  useful  railway  purpose,  and  commem- 
orates an  Indian  tribe. 

WHITE   WATER— N.  O.,  1904  miles;  Alt.,  1126. 

Five  miles  westwardly  from  Palm  Springs  the  train  will 
cross  a  small,  swiftly  flowing  musical  stream,  which  has  been 
able  to  name  itself  and  the  station  "White  Water."  Nothing 
but  "white  water"  here,  but  that  is  enough.  It  is  a  memory 
of  old  times,  when  these  mountains  at  the  north  were  sending 
vast  rivers  of  ice  to  the  lower  plains. 

PALM    SPRINGS— N.  O.,  1898  miles;  Alt.,  584. 

This  station,  planted  in  the 

tf^0n— Alt  345;  N.O.,  1891  m.  drifting  sands,  on  rainless 
fefe^,S%.$rf%X^  border  of  a  thirsty  plain, 

has  responded  to  the  gentle 
ministrations  of  White  Water,  the  glacial  stream  from  depths 


66 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


Rubidoux  Drive,  near  Riverside,  is  famous  for  its  scenery. 

of  Mt.  San  Bernardino,  and  presents  verdure  and  bloom  and 
music  of  song  birds  to  passing  pilgrims. 


PALM    VALLEY- 

Five  miles  to  the  southward  of  Palm  Springs,  enfolded  in 
the  granite  walls  of  San  Jacinto,  shut  in  from  contact  with 
desert  conditions,  is  a  small,  romantic  valley  called  "Palm," 
because  of  its  possession  of  a  luxuriant  grove  of  date  palms — 
in  some  long-by  age  ancestrally  planted  by  intelligent  hand, 
by  whom  and  when?  Certainly  not  by  the  improvident, 
thriftless,  hand-to-mouth  natives  found  here  by  the  Spaniards 
in  1537;  hardly  by  the  ancestors  of  them. 

It  has  springs  of  water  for  drinking  and  domestic  use  of 
undoubted  purity,  and  thermal  waters  for  bathing  that  are 
health  giving  to  most  and  a  delight  to  all. 

The   non-humidity   of    Palm    Valley   is    a   world's   wonder. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


67 


The  beautiful  "Glenwood"  at  Riverside  is  known  as  the  Mission  Hotel. 

Let  it  be  remembered  that  complete  saturation  of  the  air  by 
water  is  marked  100  per  cent  and  absolute  vaporless  air  by  0 
per  cent;  that  10  per  cent  is  of  rare  occurrence,  even  in  the 
arid  places  of  Arabia.  Not  to  locate  a  high  humidity  in- 
vidiously, it  may  be  better  to  say  the  average  humidity  of  the 
North  Atlantic,  as  reported  by  the  "Challenger,"  is  80  per 
cent.  Now  Palm  Valley  has  registered  as  low  as  9  per  cent, 
with  an  average  of  15  per  cent  only.  Not  much  atmospheric 
water  here  for  benefit  of  the  thirsty  pulmonary  tubercle. 
Without  moisture  he  cannot  incubate.  Its  vineyards  and  orchards 
ripen  a  harvest  more  than  thirty  days  in  advance  of  the  general 
season. 

INDIO — N.  O.,  1875  niiles;  Depression,  20;  Pop.,  200. 

Here  are  an  excellent  railway  station,  a  superior  hotel  and 
an  approved  sanitarium,  twenty  feet  below  sea-level.  Evi- 
dence that  the  ocean,  and  from  geologic  standpoint  not  so 


68 


SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 


The  valley  from  Smiley  Heights,   Redlands — Italian  in  climate  and  setting. 

very  long  ago,  covered  the  site  of  this  station  three  fathoms 
deep,  is  conclusive.  Its  autograph  remains  upon  the  beach. 
Abundant  water  for  railway  and  domestic  use  and  for  irriga- 
tion is  obtained  from  artesian  wells.  Stimulated  by  water 
thus  obtained,  the  desert  about  is  fast  becoming  fruitful  and 
dotted  with  homes  of  thrifty  farmers. 

COACHELLA— N.  O.,  1872  miles;  Depression,  70  feet;  Pop.,  200. 
The  principal  feature  at  Coachella,  as  at  Indio,  is  melon- 
growing,  hundreds   of  carloads  being  shipped   every  season, 
to  reach  Eastern  markets  the  first  from  any  section. 

THERMAL — N.  0.,  1870  miles;   Depression,  124  feet. 

Thermal  also  is  a  center  of  melon-growing  activity.     The 
entire  Coachella  Valley  is  fast  being  made  to  "blossom  as  the 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


69 


The    San    Bernardino    Mountains    from    Redlands — where    golden    oranges 
make   a   new   Hesperides. 

rose,"  and  presents  the  unique  sight  of  successful  agriculture 
below  sea-level. 

Mortmere    (Dead    Sea) — Dep.,    251.        Mecca — Dep.,  195;  N.  O.,  1863  miles. 
N.  O.,  1858  miles. 

SALTON    SEA— N.  O.,  1850  miles;   Depression,  253  feet. 

This  is  the  title  given  this  region  by  the  Reclamation 
service.  Their  map  for  1906  gives  the  water  surface  as  247 
square  miles,  the  break  in  the  Colorado  allowing  the  whole 
volume  of  the  river  to  flow  into  the  depression  for  nearly 
two  years.  Here  fish  are  fed  and  caught  from  the  moving  train. 

Skillful  engineering  repaired  the  breach,  and  returned  the 
river  "to  its  old  channel  after  enormous  labor,  and  the  har- 
nessed river  is  now  serving  the  great  canals  of  Imperial 
Valley.  The  railway  skirts  the  shore  for  nearly  sixty  miles. 
Meantime  the  deposit  of  silt  in  precipitation  will  considerably 
raise  the  bottom  of  the  great  sink. 


70  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

LANDO— N.  O.,  1826  miles;   Depression,  225. 

Five  miles  eastwardly  of  this  station  the  train  leaves  a 
remarkable  depression — the  dry  bed  of  an  ancient  sea.  This 
Volcano  station  named  itself  through  a  spring  of  sulphurous 
mud  and  water,  of  temperature  to  suggest  volcanic  fires.  In 
other  parts  of  this  great  depression  scientists  have  found 
mud  springs,  or  solfateros,  of  incredible  heat  intensity. 

IMPERIAL    JUNCTION— TV.  O.,  1821  miles;   Depression,  — . 

In  prehistoric  time  this  was  an  ocean  beach.  A  branch 
line  of  railway  extends  from  this  station  thirty  miles  south- 
erly to  the  town  of  Calexico  at  the  international  boundary. 

Brawley 18  miles.       These    towns    are    centers    of    settlement 

Imperial — 27  miles!  in  the  Imperial  Valley,  where  the  work  of 
El  Centra — 31  miles,  reclaiming  the  wondrously  fertile  soil  from 
Calexico— 4o  miles.  thg  condition  of  desert  is  being  done  on  a 
mammoth  scale,  here  being  the  largest  body  of  irrigable 
land  in  compact  form  in  the  United  States,  and  in  connection 
with  an  abundant  supply  of  water.  This  valley  is  one  of  the 
future  garden  spots  of  California.  A  few  years  have  wrought 
a  great  change  in  this  part  of  the  desert,  and  the  success  of 
irrigation  will  be  an  object  lesson  for  many.  Towns  with 
street  cars,  electric  lights  and  newspapers  and  a  population 
of  10,000  energetic,  enterprising  and  industrious  people  are 
here,  the  growth  of  less  than  ten  years. 

The  Imperial  Valley  is  great  in  extent  and  rich  in  quality. 
For  ages  the  Colorado  has  been  busy  making  what  we  called 
a  "desert,"  carrying  down  millions  of  tons  yearly  of  the 
finest  sediment,  filling  here  an  arm  of  the  gulf,  and  spreading 
it  out  flat  as  a  plain.  When  it  was  discovered  that  the  desert 
was  but  a  huge  farm,  rich  in  all  elements  of  plant-life,  and 
that  the  river  which  made  it  could  be  made  to  water  it,  the 
results  were  amazing.  Such  growth,  both  of  plant  and  animal 
life,  was  hardly  ever  seen  elsewhere.  Tree  seed  came  in  with 
the  water,  and  in  15  months  grew  to  be  4  and  5  inches  in 
diameter.  Alfalfa  made  a  growth  of  6  to  8  inches  during  the 
month  of  January,  and  grapes  from  cuttings  in  18  months 
bore  clusters.  Grapes  ripen  by  the  middle  of  June  and  are 
picked;  ripe  figs  on  the  llth  of  November.  The  soil  is 
immensely  deep.  When  the  flood  cut  down  an  ancient 
channel  82  feet  deep,  the  melting  alluvium  was  the  same  at 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  71 

the  bottom  as  at  the  top,  and  those  who  know  the  valley 
best  believe  the  soil-bed  ranges  anywhere  from  50  to  1,000 
feet  deep. 

MAMMOTH — N.  O.,  1804  miles;   Depression,  257  feet. 

Mesquite — Dep.,  294;  N.  O.,  1792  m.  Ogilby — Dep.,  354;  N.  O.,  1772  m. 
Glamis — Dep.,  331;  N.  O.,  1790  m.  Knob — Dep.,  285;  N.  O.,  1766  m. 

The  mountains  at  the  north  are  the  Chocolate,  a  spur  or 
extension  of  the  San  Bernardino  Range,  containing  many 
valuable  mines  of  gold  and  silver.  These  stations  are  points 
of  shipment  for  them. 

YUMA — N.  O.,  1756  miles;  Alt.,  410;  Pop.,  2500. 

Yuma  is  a  city  with  good  commercial  life,  enjoying  a  large 
trade  in  connection  with  mining  enterprises,  and  in  fostering 
stock-raising  and  agriculture. 

It  is  well  supplied  with  daily  papers  and  has  the  con- 
veniences and  luxuries  of  modern  cultivation.  Substantial 
blocks  of  brick  and  stone  are  occupied  by  the  merchants  and 
suitable  provision  is  also  made  for  educational  purposes. 
Ample  hotel  accommodation  is  had  at  the  Depot  Eating 
House,  situated  on  the  very  bank  of  the  Colorado. 

Here  seven  hundred  Yumas  are  now  cultivating  the  arts 
of  peace,  and  too  well-informed  ever  again  to  display  war 
paint;  but  they  have  a  record — in  years  long  gone — of  biting 
the  hands  that  fed  them. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  river,  and  north  from  the  train,  a 
cluster  of  verandahed  buildings  may  be  seen,  originally  Fort 
Yuma,  but  now  devoted  to  the  higher  and  nobler  purposes 
of  education.  The  War  Department  turned  them  over  to  the 
Interior,  and  this  established  in  them  an  important  Indian 
school.  The  buildings  have  an  airy  and  sightly  elevation. 
Opposite  to  them  across  the  river,  and  the  northerly  suburb 
of  Yuma,  is  Arizona  territorial  prison.  The  turbid  Colorado 
is  crossed  on  a  substantial  bridge  of  steel,  with  draw  on  the 
Yuma  side  for  passage  of  frequent  steam-propelled  vessels. 

The  atmosphere  is  less  desiccating  than  at  Indio,  or,  for 
that  matter,  less  than  at  any  contiguous  point  away  from  the 
river.  Standing  upon  the  bridge,  one  is  nearly  always  con- 
scious of  an  air  current,  conveying  messages  from  the  Gulf  of 
California.  Sixty-five  miles  to  the  north,  a  conspicuous,  hat- 


I  -s 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  73 

shaped  peak  is  seen,  on  the  Arizona  side  of  the  river,  called 
Castle  Dome. 

On  the  western  or  California  side,  the  near-by  mountains 
at  the  north  are  called  Chocolate,  and  their  conspicuous  peak, 
Chimney. 

The  Laguna  Dam,  twelve  miles  north  of  Yuma,  is  reached 
by  a  branch  line.  The  dam  (to  be  finished  in  1908)  will  cost 
$2,000,000,  and  is  the  principal  factor  in  the  Government  work 
of  irrigation  here  under  way.  Many  thousand  acres  will 
come  "under  the  ditch,"  and  be  protected  at  the  same  time 
from  the  overflow  of  the  great  river.  Everything  points  to  great 
prosperity  and  beauty  in  and  around  Yuma,  and  it  will  be  em- 
bowered in  orchards  of  many  varieties,  in  which  the  date  palm 
may  figure  largely. 

Blaisdell — Alt.,     171;     N.     O.,     1742  Adonde— N.  O.,    1721    miles.      North 

miles.      Shipping    point    for    valu-  of   Tacna,    Adonde   and   Gila   City 

able  gold  mine.  the    Castle    Dome    Range    is    seen, 

Gila  City — N.  O.,  1736  miles.  and  Gila  Range  at  the  south.    The 

Tacna — Alt.,  325;    N.  O.,  1714  miles.  Gila    River    is    within    easy    reach, 

Mohawk — N.    O.,    1696    miles.      The  northerly     of     all     stations  _  from 

mountains    at    the    south    are    the  Yuma    to    Gila    Bend,    and   is    fre- 

Mohawk  Range.  quently  in  sight  from  passing  train. 

Aztec— Alt.,  495;    N.  O.,  1677  miles.  Stanwix — N.  O.,  1669  miles. 

The  mountains  northerly  from  Aztec  are  the  "Eagle  Tail," 
at  the  south  Lumas  Negras  and  Sierra  of  Cabeza  Rita  and 
Mohawk  Range. 

SENTINEL  ^V.  O.,  1664  miles;   Alt.,  688. 

Near  Sentinel  occurred  the  massacre  of  the  Roys  Oatman 
family  by  Tonto  Apaches,  while  en  route  with  an  ox  team  from 
Independence,  Mo.,  to  California,  February,  1851.  From 
Sentinel,  northerly,  are  the  Big  Horn  Mountains;  those  at  the 
south,  Sierra  Colorado: 

ESTRELLA— N.  O.,  1616  miles;   Alt.,  1521. 

Painted  Rock— N.  O.,  1651  miles.  Gila  Bend—N.  O.,   1635  miles.    Alt., 

737- 

The  increase  of  altitude  at  Estrella  over  that  of  Gila  Bend 
will  be  noted.  It  amounts  to  784  feet.  The  railway  line 
here  for  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  crosses  a  spur  of  the 
Maricopa  Divide  Range. 


74 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


Apricots  are  but  one  of  the  profitable  industries  of  the  Imperial  Valley. 

MARICOPA— N.  O.,  1592  miles;   Alt.,  1173. 

Northerly  are  the  Santa  Estrella  Mountains  and  the  Chim- 
neys; northwest,  the  White  Mountains,  and  south  an  exten- 
sion of  Maricopa  Divide. 

Maricopa  is  junction  point  of  Maricopa  and  Phoenix  and 
Salt  River  Valley  Railway.  The  distance  to  Phoenix  is 
thirty-four  miles,  with  romantic  Tempe  en  route,  and,  by  a 
branch  line  from  Tempe,  Mesa  City  ,can  be  visited. 

The  interests  involved  are  of  such  importance,  there  is 
ample  reason  for  an  inspection  of  Salt  River  Valley,  with 
itinerary  as  follows: 

GILA  RIVER— Maricopa,  7  miles. 

The  length  of  the  bridge  over  this  river,  and  of  the 
approach  to  it,  seem  absurd  when  you  look  downward  in 
search  of  water,  and  end  the  quest  in  search  of  dampness. 
Upon  occasion  there  is  water,  but  angel  visits  are  quite  as 
frequent. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


75 


At   Yuma,    Indians   will    sell    you   bead   work,    symbolical    and   attractive    in 

design. 

TEMPE—  Maricopa,  26  miles. 

It  was  a  happy  thought  to  start  this  place  on  the  road  to 
popular  favor  with  suggestion  that  it  emulates  Thessalia  in 
sylvan  beauty  and  atmospheric  delights;  and,  as  you  will  find, 
the  whole  land  is  redolent  of  clover  blossom  and  vocal  of 
song  birds.  It  has  attracted  to  itself  'the  normal  school  of 
Arizona,  and  has  notable  creameries  and  apiaries,  and  in- 
dustrial enterprises  in  large  variety,  with  great  breadth  of 
fruitful  orchards,  groves  and  vineyards. 

SALT    RIVER 

The  priceless  benefactor  of  the  valley  it  names.  Originally, 
more  than  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  by  the  earliest 
visiting  Spaniards,  it  was  called  Rio  Salado  (salted  river), 
and  so  it  appears  on  some  ancient  maps.  It  and  its  tribu- 
taries have  different  sources — the  Salt  born  of  the  pine  high- 


76  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


lands  of  northern  and  interior  Arizona.  The  United  States 
Government  is  constructing  a  retaining  dam  on  Salt  River  and 
making  a  reservoir  of  Tonto  Basin.  This  will  insure  a  full 
irrigation  for  the  entire  Salt  River  Valley.  Thousands  of  acres 
will  be  put  under  irrigation  this  year,  1908. 

PHGLNIX— Maricopa,  35  miles. 

This  progressive  city  is  seat  of  government  for  Maricopa 
County  and  for  the  Territory  of  Arizona.  It  is  centrally 
located  in  Salt  River  Valley,  and  surrounded  by  a  wide 
reach  of  tributary  country,  as  rich  as  Delta  of  the  Nile.  The 
land  is  fat,  producing  cereals  and  fruit,  "corn  and  wine," 
responding  to  all  demands.  Phoenix  is  the  metropolis  of 
Arizona  and  the  immediate  and  commercial  and  financial 
center  of  more  than  six  hundred  square  miles  of  irrigable 
lands,  than  which  the  world  contains  none  of  higher  possible 
productions.  The  region  round  about  has  become  one  of  the 
great  orange  producing  districts  of  the  world — none  from  the 
West  reaches  the  Eastern  market  earlier. 

MESA  CITV—Tcmpc,  7  miles. 

On  return  it  will  be  well  to  take  the  divergent  track  at 
Tempe  for  a  seven-mile  run  to  Mesa  City.  This  municipality 
was  the  pioneer  work  of  the  Mormons — each  holding  intended 
to  be  a  full  block  on  the  urban  plat.  The  arrivals  and  de- 
partures of  fifty  years  have  subdivided  some  of  these,  but  the 
city  is  specially  bright  and  fragrant  from  bloom,  and  in  no 
spot  wanting  for  noontide  shade. 

To  return  now  to  Maricopa  and  a  continuance  of  our 
Sunset  transcontinental  trip. 

SWEETWATER 

Irrigation  by  canals  from  the  Gila,  near  Florence,  more 
than  twenty  miles  distant,  begins  at  Sweetwater,  and  will 
be  noted  in  greater  or  less  degree  nearly  twenty  miles,  to  a 
point  south  of  Arizola. 

CAS  A  GRANDE— A7.  O.,  1571  miles;  Alt.,  1396. 

Special  interest  touches  this  point,  as  from  here  trips  by 
stage  are  made  to  the  ruins  of  Casa  Grande  (Chichilticale), 
sixteen  miles  distant,  by  a  run  of  two  hours  northeasterly. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


.77 


The  Colorado  River  near  Yuma. 

An  authority  of  note  says:  "Casa  Grande  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  remains  of  prehistoric  ages  to  be  found  on 
the  continent.  The  foundations  of  the  ruins  have  recently 
been  uncovered  by  the  government.  No  Indians  known  to 
our  history  erected  this  pile.  The  country  about  Arizola 
(as  well  as  that  of  Casa  Grande)  is  irrigated  by  water  drawn 
from  the  Gila,  near  Florence;  the  principal  canal  has  a  length 
of  more  than  twenty  miles,  and  the  system  includes  an 
immense  reservoir. 

TUCSON—  Los  Angeles,  301  miles;   Alt.,  2390. 

Tucson  and  the  Mission,  nine  miles  distant,  have  a  recorded 
history  reaching  to  the  year  1700.  The  place  they  occupy, 
however,  was  visited  by  Coronado  and  Niza  one  hundred  and 
sixty  years  before  that — 1539-1540.  Divine  service  has  never 
died  at  San  Xavier  del  Bac;  continues  to  this  day,  but  the 
Indians  are  not.  Originally  Tucson  was  pendant  to  the 


78  -  SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 

Mission — in  church  records  called  "Visita,"  a  sort  of  supply 
ranch  or  farm  for  cereals  and  stock  and  recruiting  field  for 
neophytes.  Now  it  is  a  well-built,  opulent  city,  retaining 
some  of  its  old-time  architecture,  with  advantage  to  pic- 
turesque effect.  The  Territorial  University  is  here,  an 
agricultural  experiment  station  and  the  land  office  for  the 
district. 

It  has  fine  churches,  schools,  business  blocks,  hotels  and 
a  sumptuous  building  for  its  public  library.  Tucson  is  well 
entitled  to  make  strong  claims  for  its  own  healthfulness,  and 
for  wondrous  records  made  by  near-by  mountain  resorts. 
The  picturesque  mountains  at  the  north  are  Santa  Catarina, 
and  at  the  west,  Sierra  Tucson. 

A  stream,  Santa  Cruz  River,  borders  the  city  of  Tucson, 
coming  to  it  from  Sonoran  Mountains  at  the  south.  Mission 
San  Xavier  del  Bac  is  on  its  bank,  nine  miles  south  of 
Tucson.  The  river  echoed  a  tread  of  Spanish  conquistadores 
as  early  as  1540.  It  sinks  from  sight  shortly  after  leaving 
Tucson,  and  is  reputed  to  flow  underground  to  the  Gila,  near 
Maricopa,  more  than  one  hundred  miles  distant. 

Wilmot — N.  O.,  1499  miles.  important  shipping  point   for   cop- 

Esmond — N.  O.,  1492  miles.  per   and   other   minerals,   and  also 

Vail—N.  O.,  1487  miles.      Vail    is   an  for   cattle. 


PANTANO— N.  O,,  1478  miles;   Alt.,  3536. 

The  stream  that  borders  Pantano,  and  was  crossed  by  you 
shortly  before  reaching  that  station,  is  called  the  Cienega, 
and  reaches  the  San  Pedro  at  the  north  through  Turkey 
Creek,  finally  to  become  an  affluent  of  the  Gila. 

The  mountains  westerly  from  Pantano  are  the  Santa 
Catarina,  and  southerly  the  Santa 'Rita. 

Kadmon — N.   O.,   1472  miles.  Chamois — N.  O.,  1462  miles. 

Mescal — N.  O.,  1467  miles. 

BENSON— N.  O.,  1458  miles;   Alt.,  3578. 

The  town  is  less  noted  for  its  architecture  and  commercial 
life  than  for  connection  by  rail  of  Southern  Pacific  branch 
with  Nogales,  and  thence  (by  Sonora  Railway  branch)  with 
Guaymas  on  the  Gulf  of  California,  via  Hermosillp;  and  also 
by  another  line,  the  Arizona  and  Southeastern  Railroad,  with 
Bisbee,  the  city  owned  by  the  celebrated  Copper  Queen 
Company,  distant  fifty-five  miles.  Mountains  to  the  north  are 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  79 

Caliuro  Range  and  El  Rincon;  at  the  south,  the  Whetstone 
Range.  From  Guaymas,  rapid  progress  is  being  made 
southward  on  the  line  down  the  west  coast  of  Mexico  and 
Guadalajara. 

Stations  on  Branch  Line — Benson  to  Nogales 

Fairbanks — Benson,   19  miles.  Crittenden — Benson,    59   miles. 

Huachuca— Benson,    30    miles.      Fort        Patagonia — Benson,   62   miles. 
Huachuca  is  near  this  station. 

NOGALES— Benson,  89  miles;  Alt.,  3863. 

The  name  of  this  city  leaves  a  pleasant,  nutty  flavor  on 
the  tongue — and  of  right,  since  it  is  the  Spanish  word  for  the 
walnut  trees  that  bear  them.  More  than  ordinarily  pictur- 
esque is  this  walnut  grove  town,  with  fine  public  buildings 
and  well-constructed  business  blocks.  The  residences  upon 
the  rising  grounds  above  the  commercial  streets  are  beautiful 
in  architecture  -and  many  colored  half-tone  tints.  Hotel 
Montezuma  is  well  conducted  and  homelike. 

Continuing    This    Benson-Guaymas    Line    to    Terminal    of 
Sonora  Railway   (Ltd.) 

Carbo — Benson,    153    miles.  Ortiz — Benson,  323  miles. 

Hermosillo — Benson,  263  miles.  Guaymas — Benson,   353  miles. 

Torres — Benson,   289  miles. 

This  branch  is  being  built  along  the  rich,  almost  unknown, 
west  coast  country  of  Mexico  to  Guadalajara. 

SAN   PEDRO    RIVER 

Resuming  the  main  line  and  leaving  Benson,  the  rail  spans 
a  watercourse  that  has  a  history,  although  its  volume  is 
insignificant.  This  is  the  San  Pedro;  rising  in  the  mountains 
of  Sonora  at  the  south,  it  pursues  a  devious  course  northerly, 
and  empties  into  the  Gila. 

It  was  along  the  banks  of  this  river  and  those  of  its  birth- 
place twin,  the  Santa.  Cruz,  met  by  you  at  Tucson,  that  the 
military  and  exploring  parties  of  1540,  under  Coronado  and 
others,  coming  from  Mexico,  sought  to  achieve  Cibola. 

DRAGOON-  -/V.  0.,  1437  miles;   Alt,  4614. 

Caliuro  Range  at  the  north  and  Dragoon  at  the  south. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  81 

COCHISE— N.  O.,  1427  miles;  Alt.,  4222. 

Cochise  is  junction  point  of  branch  line  to  celebrated 
Pierce  mining  district,  shipping  gold,  silver  and  copper  pro- 
ductions. Dragoon  Mountains  at  the  south.  Between  Cochise 
and  Willcox  the  train  traverses  a  notable  alkali  flat — all  that 
remains  of  a  former  lake — where  may  be  seen  the  mirage 
every  sunny  day. 

WILLCOX—  N.  O.,  1416  miles;    Alt.,  4164. 

Southwesterly  from  Willcox  can  be  seen  the  rich  metal- 
producing  Dragoon  Mountains. 

In  the  cattle  world  as  well  as  in  the  mineral,  Willcox 
occupies  large  space.  Its  herds  range  over  a  bovine  em- 
pire, and  upon  occasion  cones  and  cubes  and  ingots  of  copper 
and  the  precious  metals  obstruct  pedestrianism.  Stage  to 
Fort  Grant,  thirty  miles. 

RAILROAD  PASS— N.  O.,  1408  miles. 

The  small  watercourse  near  here  is  called  Dos  Cabesas 
Creek;  mountains  at  the  north,  Pinaleno  Range,  these  include 
Mount  Graham  and  Fort  Grant;  at  the  south  the  Chiricahua 
range.  To  the  south,  the  double  peak  is  Dos  Cabesas,  one  of 
the  landmarks  from  frontier  days. 

BOWIE— N.  O.,  1892  miles;   Alt.,  S759- 

Bowie  is  junction  point  of  Gila  Valley,  Globe  and  Northern 
Railway,  extending  northerly  through  the  rich  Gila  Valley 
to  copper  mining  Globe,  124  miles  away.  This  latter  metal 
product  is  of  the  richest.  Northerly  from  Bowie  is  the 
Pinaleno  Range,  and  at  the  south  the  Chirichuas.  These  and 
the  neighboring  Dragoon  Mountains  for  many  years  were 
the  resorts  of  Cochise  and  his  blood-thirsty  followers. 

The  traveler  will  be  glad  to  know  a  well-kept  hotel  and 
eating-house  awaits  him  at  Bowie. 

Bowie  to  Globe,  by  Gila  Valley,  Globe  and  Northern  Railway 

Solomon — Bowie,   35   miles.  Rice — Bowie,      105      miles.        Indian 

Safford — Bowie,    40   miles.  school  of   great  magnitude. 

Thatcher — Bowie,   43  miles.  Globe — Bowie,    124    miles.      Famous 

Fort   Thomas — Bowie,   62   miles.  center  of  copper  and  other  mining. 
Geronimo — Bowie,  68  miles. 
San    Carlos — Bowie,    94    miles.      In- 
dian   school   of   note. 


82  -  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

SIMON— N.  O.,  1376  miles;   Alt.,  3609. 

The  striking  mountain  range  at  the  south  is  Chiricahua. 
It  requires  but  little  imagination  at  a  favorable  point  of  view 
to  see  outlines  of  a  recumbent  giant,  resting  upon  the  moun- 
tain crest.  This  is  monument  of  Cochise,  the  fiercest  of 
Apache  chieftains.  At  the  north  are  Peloncillo  Mountains. 

SAUZ  RIVER 

When  the  lower  levels  are  reached,  after  passing  San 
Simon,  evidences  will  be  abundant  that  upon  occasion  waters 
run  wild  across  the  railway  track.  This  is  bed  of  Sauz 
River.  Of  ancient  date  had  right  of  way,  and  now  and  again 
struggles  to  enforce  it. 

STEINS— N.  0.,  1361  miles;  Alt.,  4351. 

Pyramid  Mountains  at  the  south,  Steins  Pass  is  the  first 
station  in  New  Mexico.  Ascending  the  grade  eastward 
going,  a  short  distance  before  arriving  at  Grants  Pass,  a  way- 
side legend,  on  opposite  sides,  will  read  "Arizona-New 
Mexico." 

Pyra — N.  O.,  1347  miles.  Named 
for  Pyramid  Mountains  at  the 
south. 

LORDSBURG— A .  O.,  1340  miles;  Alt.,  4245. 

The  mountains  at  the  north  are  Burro,  and  at  the  south, 
Pyramid.  From  Lordsburg  the  Arizona  and  New  Mexico 
Railway  line  extends  to  the  copper  mines  at  Clifton  and 
Morenci.  In  railway  operating  it  is  a  busy  line  of  industry, 
and  its  tributary  country,  in  mines  and  pasturage,  needs 
reasonable  development  only  to  make  this  a  feature  of  New 
Mexico's  progress. 

Lisbon — N.   O.,    1332   miles.  Gage — Alt.,  4488;  N.  O.,  1302  miles. 

Separ — Alt.,     4503;       N.     O.,      1323  South     of    Tunis    and     Gage     are 

miles.  Victoria     Mountains.       They    con- 

North    are    Burro    Mountains    and  tain    silver    deposits    awaiting    ap- 

south    Sierra    de    las    Animas    and  preciatiort    of    that    metal    before 

Coyote  Peak  in  the  Hahcita  Mts.  exploitation. 

Wilna — N.   O.,   1311   miles.  Tunis — N.  O.,  1290  miles. 

DEMING— N.  O.,  1282  miles;   Alt.,  4334. 

The  Mimbre  Range  of  mountains  lies  north  of  Deming  and 
south  are  Red  Mountain  and  Florida  Peak.  Deming  is  a 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


83 


Mission   San  Xavier  where  divine  service  has  been  perpetual. 

thriving  city,  with  valuable  resources  in  mines  and  cattle. 
The  El  Paso  and  Southwestern  Railway  connects  Deming 
with  Sonora.  It  is  also  the  terminal  point  of  the  Santa  Fe 
from  Rincon  on  the  north  and  has  a  branch  line  to  Silver 
City,  48  miles  distant.  The  Mimbres  River  is  here  an  under- 
ground stream,  and  some  irrigation  is  conducted  from 
artesian  wells.  Deming  ships  many  cattle,  and  hay  from  the 
plains  is  a  source  of  profit. 

RIO  GRANDE— N.  O.,  1197  miles. 

This  historic  stream,  flowing  the  mountains  of  Colorado 
and  onward,  at  El  Paso  becoming  a  living  aqueous  line  be- 
tween Republics  of  United  States  and  Mexico,  shows  but 
traces  of  the  broad  and  deep  current  that  belongs  to  it  by 
birthright.  At  all  points  since  it  left  its  cradle,  eager  hands 
have  seized  and  appropriated  its  substances,  and  now,  at  this 
crossing,  a  superb  steel  bridge  seems  almost  superfluous. 


84  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

Hardly  more  than  dampness  has  been  left  to  its  bed,  and  the 
legal  holding  may  be  covered  by  railway  term  "right  of  way." 
Give  respectful  salute  to  it;  impoverished  that  many  might 
be  fed.  On  leaving  the  bridge  an  underlying  line  of  railway 
may  be  crossed.  This  is  the  Santa  Fe,  from  the  north.  To 
the  south  is  Mexico,  with  housetops  and  old  Mission  of 
Ciudad  Juarez.  When  this  church  was  constructed  by  labor 
of  Indian  neophytes,  both  sides  the  Rio  Grande  were  Paso  del 
Norte;  but  now,  that  river  being  boundary  line  between 
United  States  and  Mexico,  with  becoming  modesty  the  Mexi- 
cans concede  "El  Paso"  to  our  city  at  the  northerly  side,  and 
the  south  has  become  Ciudad  Juarez,  in  honor  of  its  patriot 
president.  Time  permitting,  by  all  means  take  a  seat  in  elec- 
tric car  and  visit  Old  Mexico.  See  a  fair  sample  of  poco 
tiempo  and  manana;  fail  not  of  the  church,  its  worship  and  the 
adjuncts  of  it  in  no  essential  changed  since  its  first  incense 
arose,  three  hundred  years  ago. 

EL  PASO — N.  O.,  1194  miles;  Alt.,  3713;  Pop.,  45,000. 

El  Paso,  formerly  Paso  del  Norte,  the  pass  of  the  north, 
going  from  Old  Mexico  to  New,  was  visited  early  by  ad- 
venturous Ofiatto,  a  Spanish  commander,  with  a  large  party, 
who  speaks  of  it,  on  date  fourth  of  May,  1598. 

El  Paso  has  a  virile  business  life,  its  people  are  aggressive, 
wide-awake,  ready  to  seize  upon  favorable  opportunities  and 
make  the  most  of  what  Providence  awards.  There  are  many 
noble  public  buildings,  United  States  custom  house  and 
court  buildings,  hospitals,  churches,  banks  and  mercantile 
houses  and  hotels. 

Notable  among  its  enterprises  are  the  mammoth  smelting 
works  in  western  suburbs. 

It  is  the  western  terminus  of  Texas  and  Pacific  Railway 
and  eastern  of  El  Paso  and  Southwestern.  Is  reached  by 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  and  Texas,  and  by  Atchison,  Topeka 
and  Santa  Fe  from  the  north,  and  Mexican  Central  from 
the  south,  and  by  Rio  Grande,  Sierra  Madre  and  Pacific  Rail- 
way from  the  gold  placers  of  the  Yaqui,  and  connected  with 
both  Atlantic  and  Pacific  worlds  by  lines  of  Southern  Pacific 
Company. 

Eastward  from   El   Paso  the  railway  time  is   Central,  and 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


85 


Castle  Canyon,  a  picturesque  bit  of  Texas  scenery. 

two  hours  faster  than   Pacific,  which  "rules  the  rail"   out  of 
San  Francisco  to  El  Paso. 

Northeasterly  the  mountains  are  Victoria,  in  Sierra  Hueco 
Range,  and  those   more   distant,   respectively  called  Jarrilla, 


Sacramento     and     Guadalupe; 

Mountains. 

Y  si  eta— Alt.,  3664;  N.  O.,  1180 
miles.  Ysleta  is  one  of  the  oldest 
towns  in  America,  settled  in  1649 
by  offshoot  of  Christian  Indians 
from  Ysleta  Pueblo,  300  miles  up 
Rio  Grande.  Interesting  old  Mis- 
sion Church  to  the  south;  Pop. 
2000. 


and     northerly,     the     Organ 

Alfalfa— Alt.,     3689;     N.     O.,     1186 

miles. 

Belen — Alt.,  3645;  N.  O.,  1176  miles. 
San    Elizario — Alt,     3630;     N.     O., 

1170  miles;  Pop.   800. 
Fabens— Alt.,     3614;     N.     O.,     1163 

miles. 
Iser — N.  O.,  1147  miles;  Pop.,  800. 


FORT  HANCOCK— AT.  O.,  1139  miles;  Alt.,  35^9- 

The  military  post  called  Fort  Hancock  is  near  the  bank  of 
Rio  Grande,  about  one  mile  south  of  the  station,  but  plainly 
visible.  The  elevated  bluff  on  the  Mexican  side  of  the  river 


86  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

is  beautifully  marked  by  weathering  of  crystalline  strata,  that 
when  plastic,  under  pressure,  were  forced  into  a  zigzag  or 
chevron  formation  called  dancette. 

Madden — N.   O.,    1129  miles.  Small — N.  O.,  1116  miles. 

Finlay — Alt.,     3945;      N.     O.,     11:22 
miles. 

MALONE— N.  O.,  1115  miles;  Alt.,  3945. 

Grade  necessities  at  Malone  have  created  some  beautiful 
horseshoe  curves,  with  sentimental  suggestions  of  good  luck 
to  those  who  traverse  them.  • 

Lasca — N.  O.,  1108  miles.  Etholen — N.  O.,  1104  miles. 

SIERRA  BLANC  A— N.  O.,  noo  miles;   Alt.,  4512.   . 

Sierra  Blanca  marks  the  junction  of  Texas  and  Pacific  from 
its  northern  terminal  at  Texarkana,  and  is  ninety-three  miles 
from  El  Paso.  The  name  was  suggested  by  a  singularly  white 
mountain  in  the  vicinity,  clothed  in  drab,  but  leaning  to 
variety  in  lines  of  bright  red  where  the  "quaker"  has  been 
washed  away  by  some  down-flowing  current.  At  various 
points  on  the  line  between  Sierra  Blanca  and  Marfa,  prairie 
dogs  will  be  abundantly  seen,  and,  not  infrequently,  bands  of 
antelope  also.  Mountains  south  of  Sierra  Blanca  are  Quit- 
man  and  the  Sierra  Blanca,  and  northerly  Carizo  Mountains, 
and  in  the  middle  distance  Sierra  del  Diablo,  and  far  away  the 
Guadalupe  Range. 

Grayton — N.  O.,  1090  miles.  Lobo — N.  O.,  1061  miles. 

Torbert — N.  O.,  1084  miles.  Volga — N.  O.,  1053  miles. 

Dalberg — Alt.,    4188;    N.     O.,     1072  Chispa — Alt.,     4082;     N.     O.,     1047 

miles.  miles. 

Collado — N.  O.,   1067  miles.  Wendell — N.  O.,  1039  miles. 
Fay — Alt.,  4013;    N.   O.,   1063  miles. 

VALENTINE— N.  O,,  1031  miles;  Alt.,  4424. 

The  elevated  grazing  plains  occupied  by  Valentine  are  full 
of  scenic  interest,  covered  by  a  brown  carpet  of  sustaining 
grass,  here  and  there  large  herds  of  cattle,  and  frequently 
exciting  bands  of  antelope;  and,  for  joy  of  the  youngsters, 
colonies  of  prairie  dogs,  burrowing  within  the  lines  of  railway 
reservation  even,  as  asking,  "Who's  afraid?" 
Quebec — N.  O.,  1023  miles.  A  small  Ryan — Alt.,  4746;  N.  O.,  1015  miles. 

stream    at    Quebec    is    called    Live        Aragon — N.  O.,  1005  miles. 

Oak   Creek.' 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  87 

MARFA — Ar.  O.,  996  miles;  Alt.,  4692;  Pop.,  1050. 

FORT   DAVIS— 

The  mountains  northerly  are  Sierra  del  Muerte  and  Apache; 
in  the  heart  of  them  is  Fort  Davis,  on  Pine  Creek,  an  affluent 
of  the  Pecos. 

For  large  game,  bear  and  mountain  lions  or  panthers,  del 
Muerto  and  Apache  are  famous.  The  most  noted  peak  is 
Livermore,  rising  to  8332  feet  elevation.  These  ranges  are 
well  wooded,  and  offer  rare  sport  to  huntsmen. 

Marfa  is  a  place  of  more  than  ordinary  interest;  is  seat  of 
justice  for  Presidio  County;  has  a  courthouse  that  might 
grace  a  metropolis.  The  surrounding  country  is  fine  grazing 
land.  Between  Marfa  and  the  Sierra,  a  stream  called  Rock 
Creek  flows  for  a  short  distance  eastwardly  and  then  to  the 
south,  crosses  the  railway  line  and  empties  into  Rio  Grande. 

The  elevation  gives  it  a  climate  of  perennial  delight; 
especially  so  to  denizens  of  the  Gulf  Coast,  and  to  these  it 
should  have  value  above  price. 

An  abundance  of  game  is  to  be  found  in  the  mountain 
ravines,  and  indeed  on  the  plains,  with  the  reasonable  cer- 
tainty of  bagging  quail,  antelope  and  wolves,  and  bear  in  the 
mountains.  Much  of  the  curative  power  of  this  region  is  no 
doubt  due  to  outdoor  life  and  to  exercise  on  horseback. 
There  is  something  higher  than  a  lover's  appeal  in  'We'll 
chase  the  antelope  over  the  plain." 

Nopal — N.  O.,  991  miles. 

PAISANO— N.  O.,  983  miles;    Alt.,  5082. 

Toronto — N.  O.,  976  miles.  Altuda — N.  O.,  955  miles. 

Alpine' — Alt.,  4485;  N.  O.,  970  miles.        Lenox— N.  O.,  948  miles. 
Strobel — N.  O.,  963  miles. 

This  is  the  summit  of  the  Sunset  Route.  Paisano  marks 
the  highest  reach  of  this  transcontinental  line. 

MARATHON— N.  O.,  939  miles;  Alt.,  4043;  Pop.,  500. 

At      this      elevation      the      summer 

^arm^-N.  0,93 1  miles.  dimate  apprOaches  perfection,  and 
under  influence  of  ocean  air  from  the  Gulf  its  winters  are  of 
the  mildest. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  89 

RAYMOND— N.  O.,  923  miles;  Alt.,  3883. 

Southerly  the  mountains  are  Horsehead  Hills;  north,  are 
spurs  of  Sierras  del  Muerte  and  Apache. 

Taber — N.  O.,  915  miles.  Longfellow — Alt.,    3274;    N.    O.,    895 

Maxcn — N.  O.,  911  miles.  miles. 

Rosenfeld — N.  O.,  904  miles.  Emerson — N.  O.,  887  miles. 

SANDERSON— N.  O.,  879  miles;   Alt.,  2780;   Pop.,  650. 

Sanderson    marks    the    bounds    of    a 

SSSS^VafSSk     run   by  freight  crews,  and  place  of 
change   for   passenger  train   engines. 

Mountains  northward  are  Sierras  del  Muerte,  and  in  the 
extreme  distance,  Sierra  Charette. 

Dryden — Alt,     2109;     N.     O.,     858        Thurston—'N.  O.,  851  miles, 
miles.  Wat  kins — N.  O.,  844  miles. 

LOZIER— N.  O.,  834  miles;  Alt.,  1535. 

Travelers  will  note  the  continuous  charm  of  mountain  air 
on  all  these  popular  table-lands.  The  mountains  in  the  south 
are  Sierras  de  los  Burros;  northerly  in  distance  Sierra 
Charette. 

Samuels — N.  O.,  826  miles.  Langtry — Alt.,     1321;     N.     O.,     806 

Osman — N.  O.,  817  miles.  miles. 

Shumla — Alt.,  1418;      N.      O.,      794 
miles. 

PECOS  RIVER 

This  river  reaches  up  into  New  Mexico  and  disputes  with 
the  Canadian  for  its  drainage.  It  empties  into  Rio  Grande. 

VIADUCT- N.  O.,787  miles;  Alt.,  1016. 

At  Viaduct  is  a  wondrous  steel  bridge,  spanning  the  Pecos, 
the  extreme  length  of  it  2184  feet  and  elevation  above  the 
river  bed  321  feet.  This  is  one  of  the  great  railway  bridges 
of  the  world,  airy  and  graceful,  but  solid  as  a  rock. 

COMSTOCK— N.  O.,  777  miles;    Alt.,  1556. 

Castle  Canon  offers  scenic  attraction  of  Castle  Rocks, 
where  sand-blast  and.  water  have  carved  \\\$  cliff  into  fantastic 
castle-like  form. 


90  SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 

DEVIL'S  RIVER— N.  0.,  756  miles. 

This  is  an  •  unusually  beautiful,  romantic  river,  clear  as 
crystal,  and  musical  with  liquid  notes,  as  it  finds  its  way 
over  boulder  and  pebble,  between  the  verdant  banks. 

Across  the  Rio  Grande,  along  which  the  train  runs  a  few  miles 
in  scenic  canon,  where  huge  rocks  overhang,  the  mountains  are 
called  Los  Arboles  (suggesting  woodland). 
McKees — N.  O.,  750  miles. 

DEL  RIO— N.  O.,  741  miles;   Alt.,  954;   Pop.,  7000. 

Del  Rio  is  in  very  close  contact  with  the  Rio  Grande,  which 
perhaps  suggested  the  name.  A  small  stream  that  pays 
tribute  to  urban  happiness  at  Del  Rio  is  called  Sycamore, 
shortly  to  unite  with  Rio  Grande.  The  region  is  one  of  great 
promise  and  the  rich  lands  are  filling  up  with  settlers.  Be- 
yond Del  Rio  we  enter  a  great  cattle-raising  district. 

Johnstone — N.  O.,  733  miles.  Amanda — N.  O.,  727  miles. 

STAND  ART—  N.  O.,  723  miles;  Alt.,  1054. 

The  small  river  at  Standart  is  called  Piedra  Pinto,  and  is 
tributary  of  Rio  Grande. 

Pinto — N.  O.,  717  miles.  Elm    Creek — Is    a    small    stream    at 

Kinney — N.  O.,  712  miles.  Spofford.       It      is      tributary      to 

,  Nueces. 

SPOFFORD— N.  O.,  705  miles;   Alt.,  1015;   Pop.,  350. 

Anacacho—N.  O.,  697  miles.  At    Spofford,    connection    is 

Waldo — N.  O.,  688  miles  made  by  Eagle  Pass  branch 

Cline-- Alt. ,1007;  N.  O.,  682  miles.        wjth    Mexican    International 

Railway  for  City  of  Mexico 

and  intermediates.     It   is   in   great   request   for   side   trips   to 
Aztec  wonders. 

NUECES— AT.  O.,  670  miles;   Alt.,  942. 

Nueces  is  a  trading  center  for  grazing  and  agricultural  dis- 
trict. 

Nueces  River  empties  into  Corpus  Christi  Bay.  This  river 
has  frequent  mention  in  history  of  Mexico  and  Texas. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


91 


A  glimpse  of  El  Paso — on  the  border-line  of  Mexico  and  the  United  States. 

UVALDE— N.  O.,  664  miles;  Alt.,  930;  Pop.,  4000. 

Uvalde  is  an  influential  county  town  and  center  for  wide 
area  of  stock-raising  and  agricultural  country.  Is  center  of 
the  bee  industry,  and  angora  goats  are  extensively  raised. 


LEONA  RIVER— 

Ange — N.  O.,  659  miles. 

Chatfield — N.    O.,    653    miles.      Near 

Chatfield  is   Rio   Frio,   a  tributary 

of  the  Nueces. 
Yucca — N.  O.,  647  miles. 


Is  near  Uvalde.  In  common 
with  most  of  the  streams 
westward  of  the  San  Anto- 
nio, it  is  tributary  of  Nueces, 
through  Rio  Frio. 


SABINAL— N.  O.,  642  miles;  Alt.,  936. 

Near  Sabinal  is  a  small  stream,  a  branch 
*co-N.O.,  635  mile*       ofRioFria 


92 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


In  Texas,  down  by  the  Rio  Grande,   near  El  Paso. 

D'HANIS— N.  O.,  630  miles;  Alt.,  888;  Pop.,  3000. 

D'Hanis  is  a  thriving  town  of  much  local  value.  The  small 
stream  near  to  it  westerly  is  Seco  Creek,  an  affluent  of  the 
Nueces,  through  Rio  Frio. 

Hondo  Creek  is  an  affluent  of  Nueces,  through  the  Rio  Frio. 


Hondo — Alt.,  900;  N.  O.,  621  miles. 
Dunlay — Alt.,     1008;     N.     O.,     611 

miles. 

Noonan — N.  O.,  604  miles. 
Lacoste — Alt.,    730;    N.  O.,  597  miles. 
Macdona — N.   O.,   589   miles. 


I  die  wild — N.  O.,  594  miles. 
Withers — N.  O.,  581  miles. 
Alazan — N.  O.,  576  miles. 


SAN  ANTONIO— N.  O.,  572  miles;  Alt.,  686;   Pop.,  105,000. 

San  Antonio  is  distinguished  for  many  excellences;  the 
area  of  an  empire  is  tributary  to  it  in  live  stock,  cotton  and 
general  farm  produce;  and  with  a  most  salubrious  climate, 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


93 


i 


The  slender,   strong  bridge  that  spans  the  Pecos. 


Here  is  located  the  largest  military  post  in  the  United  States, 
Fort  Sam  Houston,  and  the  famed  Hot  Sulphur  Well  and 
Hotel  with  hundreds  of  cures  to  its  credit.  Hence,  rail- 
ways radiate  to  all  point  of  the  compass.  Northerly  it  has 
International  and  Great  Northern  and  Missouri,  Kansas  and 
Texas;  southerly  and  as  well  to  central  Texas,  San  Antonio 
and  Aransas  Pass  Railway;  but  its  most  important  line  is 
that  of  Sunset  Route,  which,  in  its  new  Union  Station,  has 
here  one  of  the  finest  passenger  stations  in  America  and 
which  connects  with  all  the  world  through  San  Francisco  on 
the  Pacific  and  New  Orleans  at  the  east.  The  city  is  watered 
by  San  Antonio  River,  and  some  small  tributaries,  including 
the  Salado.  There  are  twenty-one  parks,  several  hot  sulphur 
wells  and  seven  large  hotels.  San  Antonio  cannot  be  so 
engrossed  in  its  present  glories  as  to  forget  that  it  holds 
the  Alamo. 

Historic   and   patriotic   interest   largely   centers   in   its   im- 


94  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

mortal  Alamo.  In  this  semi-military  church,  during  the  war 
with  Mexico  by  Texas  for  its  independence  in  March,  1836, 
182  citizen  soldiers  were  besieged  by  Santa  Ana  in  command 
of  5,000  Mexican  regulars.  At  an  early  day  a  retreat  might 
have  been  made  with  some  losses,  but  the  heroic  band  be- 
lieved their  death  would  serve  their  country  better  than 
ignoble  flight;  and  it  will  be  noted  that  while  their  number 
originally  was  but  150,  yet,  during  the  siege  thirty-two  others 
fought  their  way  in  to  share  the  closing  massacre.  At  the  end 
of  eleven  days  the  sacrifice  was  completed — all  died!  Travis, 
the  commander,  fell  at  his  post  of  duty,  on  the  way;  Colonel 
Bowie  in  bed,  so  sick  he  could  not  rise  to  receive  the  bayo- 
net thrust  of  the  foe — but  that  was  needless;  he  was  mur- 
dered where  he  lay.  David  Crockett  died  behind  a  rampart 
of  assailants  he  had  slain.  There  was  no  chivalrous  recog- 
nition of  valor;  the  last  defender  died.  One  woman,  with  a 
young  child,  and  a  negro  servant,  were  left  to  tell  the  tale. 
On  the  monument  Texas  has  inscribed  "Thermopylae  had  its 
messenger  of  defeat;  the  Alamo  had  none." 

It  is  not  unpleasant  to  know  this  holocaust  served  its  pur- 
pose to  "fire  the  heart"  of  patriotism,  and,  shortly  after,  the 
Lone  Star  waved  in  triumph. 

Kirby — N.  O.,  564  miles.  Marion — Alt.,  640;  N.  O.,  548  miles. 

Converse — Alt.,  717;    N.   O.,  558  m.        Hilda — N.  O.,  542  miles. 

SEGUIN— N.  O.,  536  miles;  Alt.,  599;  Pop.,  3700. 

This  attractive  city  is  about  one  mile  south  of  the  station. 
It  deals  largely  in  cotton,  and  in  live  stock  of  superior  grade. 
Seguin  has  water  power  possibilities  that  could  make  it  one 
of  the  principal  manufacturing  centers  of  Texas.  Contiguous 
to  the  city  are  falls  of  the  Guadalupe  River — untold  wealth, 
literally  running  to  waste. 

KINGSBURY— N.  O.,  526  miles;   Alt.,  613. 

Sullivan — N.  O.,  523  miles. 

LULING— N.  O.,  515  miles;   Alt.,  416;   Pop.,  2500. 

Luling  is  a  very  attractive,  progressive  city,  having  enter- 
prise as  well  as  capital.  It  deals  heavily  in  cotton,  produced 
in  a  rich  tributary  country.  The  city  is  watered  and  drained 
by  an  affluent  of  Guadalupe  River.  The  Sunset  Route  bisects 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  95 

the  city,  bringing  commerce  and  the  transportation  side  of 
it  into  close  contact.  San  Antonio  and  Aransas  Pass  Railway 
is  also  in  Luling.  The  nights  are  made  luminous  by  won- 
drous firefly  displays. 

HARWOOD— AT.  O.,  506  miles;  Alt.,  460. 

Harwood  is  terminal  of  a  twelve- 
^N.O,eso.  miles.  »«e  branch  line  to  Gonzales, 
where  it  connects  with  San  Anto- 
nio and  Aransas  Pass  Railway  for  southern  Texas  and  the 
Gulf. 

WAELDER— N.  O.,  493  miles;   Alt.,  375;   Pop.,  2000. 

Waelder  is  in  proper  enjoyment  of  much  local  pride.  Its 
enterprise  reaches  every  legitimate  channel  of  business  and 
deserves  success. 

FLATONIA  -AT.  O.,  481  miles;   Alt.,  461;   Pop.,  2700. 

Flatonia  is  an  active  manufacturing  and  commercial  city, 
with  an  arm  of  San  Antonio  and  Aransas  Pass  Railway,  in 
addition  to  transcontinental  lines  of  the  Sunset  Route,  to 
foster  its  prosperity.  The  San  Antonio  and  Aransas  Pass 
reaches  northerly  to  valuable  tributary  fields,  and,  as  well,  to 
ports  on  the  Gulf. 
Engle — N.  O.,  475  miles. 

SCHULENBERG— N.  0.,  469  miles;   Alt.,  352;  Pop.,  2364. 

Schulenberg  is  planted  on  pleasant  rolling  ground,  enjoys 
good  commercial  life,  and  has  an  excellent  railway  eating- 
house. 

WEIMAR— N.  O.,  461  miles;   Alt.,  416;   Pop.,  2710. 

Weimar  is  a  place  of  local  interest.  Its  name,  and  also 
those  of  Schulenberg  and  Waelder,  yet  to  be  noted,  speak 
of  pious,  fatherland  memories  by  their  founders.  Between 
Weimar  and  Schulenberg  the  Navidad  River  is  crossed.  It 
reaches  Lavaca  Bay. 

BORDEN— Ar.  O.,  455  miles;  Alt.,  301. 


The   Alamo — where   brave    Americans    met    death    but    not    defeat. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  97 

GLIDDEN— N.  O.,  449  miles;   Alt.,  242. 

Glidden  is  essentially  a  railroad  town,  and,  therefore,  wide 
awake.  On  all  hands  is  heard  the  busy  hum  of  profitable 
industry.  A  branch  railway  connects  it  with  La  Grange, 
northerly. 

COLUMBUS— N.  O.,  446  miles;  Alt.,  209;  Pop.,  2100. 

Columbus  is  a  place  of  more  than  average  urban  value. 
Large  mercantile  and  manufacturing  interests  are  fostered  by 
it,  and  by  branch  railway  with  one  terminal  at  Glidden  it  has 
access  to  La  Grange  at  the  north.  It  is  noted  for  its  beautiful 
live  oaks. 

COLORADO  RIVER  OF  TEXAS— 

This  large  stream  takes  its  rise  in  Northern  Texas,  in  close 
relation  to  Pecos  River  and  the  upper  waters  of  the  Brazos, 
and  empties  into  Matagorda  Bay. 

Smith  Junction — N.  O.,  445  miles.  Alleyton — N.  O.,  442  miles. 
Has  branch  railway  connection  Ramsey — N.  O.,  435  miles, 
with  La  Grange  at  the  north. 

EAGLE  LAKE— TV.  O.,  431  miles;  Alt.,  179;  Pop.,  2600. 

This  pleasant  town  has  a  most  inviting  appearance,  and  is 
in  possession  of  present  prosperity,  with  an  assured  future. 
In  addition  to  the  through  transcontinental  line  of  the  Sun- 
set Route,  it  has  San  Antonio  and  Aransas  Pass  and  the  Santa 
Fe  railways,  giving  direct  access  to  all  parts  of  the  State. 
Here  is  fine  rice  land. 

LISSIE— N.  0.,  423  miles;   Alt.,  162. 

EAST  BERNARD— N.  O.,  413  miles;  Alt.,  131. 

Matin — N.  Q  ?  4IO  miies.  Randon — N.  O.,  404  miles. 

ROSENBERG— N..  0.,  397  miles;  Alt.,  no;  Pop.,  2000. 

Rosenberg  is  a  railway  junction  city.  By  the  Gulf,  West- 
ern Texas  and  Pacific,  and  the  New  York,  Texas  and  Mexi- 
can Railways,  it  reaches  Victoria,  Cuero  and  Port  Lavaca, 
and  has  northerly  outlet  over  Gulf  Coast  and  Santa  Fe,  and  is 
connected  with  all  the  world  by  the  transcontinental  line  of 
the  Sunset  Route. 


98 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The  Alamo  Plaza,   San  Antonio. 

RICHMOND— N.  O.,  394  miles;   Alt.,  96;   Pop.,  1920. 

Richmond  is  a  place  of  business  activity;  its  natural  advan- 
tages developing  local  pride  and  public  spirit. 

BRAZOS  RIVER— N.  O.,  393  miles. 

This  famous  river  is  crossed  between  Sartartia  and  Rich- 
mond. It  bears  drainage  from  points  in  close  contact  with 
Red  River  in  northern  Texas,  and  ends  its  beneficent  life  in 
Gulf  of  Mexico. 

SARTARTIA— N.  O.,  387  miles;  Alt.,  82. 

A  large  area  of  rich  river  bottom  land  is  devoted  to  sugar- 
cane cultivation  at  this  place  with  gratifying  success,  and  the 
largest  sugar-cane  factory  in  the  South.  The  "bone  black" 
process  is  used  in  refining  the  sugar. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


99 


Trees  bearded  with  Spanish  moss  in  Brackenridge  Park,   San  Antonio. 

SUGARLAND— N.  O.,  386  miles;   Alt.,  82. 

Stafford— N.  O.,  386  miles.  Stella— Alt.,  63;  N.  O.;  372  miles. 

Missouri  City — Alt,  92;   N.  O.,   380        Tewena — N.  O.,  365  miles. 

miles.  Chancy  Junction — N.   O.,  363  miles. 

Lotus—  N.  O.,  377  miles. 

HOUSTON— N.  O.,  362  miles;  Alt.,  64;  Pop.,  92,000. 

Houston  is  a  great  city.  It  is  the  commercial  and  railway 
metropolis  of  Texas,  made  so  by  the  energy  of  its  merchants 
and  manufacturers  and  the  enterprise  of  railway  construction, 
relying  upon  the  future  for  reward.  The  most  ambitious 
wishes  of  its  business  men  have  been  met  by  railway  lines 
extending  to  every  possible  mart  of  value.  The  seaport  is 
Galveston,  by  rail,  fifty-three  miles  south. 

Its  railways  number  sixteen,  in  operation  and  under  con- 
struction, which  show  the  magnitude  of  this  interest.  These 
include  San  Antonio  and  Aransas  Pass,  Houston  and  Texas 
Central,  International  and  Great  Northern  and  the  transcon- 


100 


SOUTHERN   PACIFIC 


Texas  has  many  picturesque  watercourses. 

tinental    line    of    the    Sunset    Route,    New    Orleans    to    San 
Francisco. 

The  city  is  opulent,  well  built,  progressive,  and  has  an 
assured  future,  the  reward  of  industry  and  enterprise. 

GALVESTON— Houston,  53  miles;   Pop.,  43,000. 

Galveston  will  fill  the  dreams  of  the  Middle-West  for  a 
deep-sea  harbor  on  the  Gulf.  For  many  years  enterprising 
capital  has  awaited  a  fair  opportunity  to  inaugurate  and  com- 
plete the  works  needful  to  make  this  a  seaport  equal  to  pros- 
pective demands  of  commerce  that  shall  pass  through  its 
gates.  The  initial  steps  have  been  taken  and  success  is  cer- 
tain, as  the  general  government  has  appropriated  $3,000.000 
for  a  deep-water  harbor.  The  largest  seagoing  vessels  find 
no  difficulty  in  entering  the  31-foot  channel.  To  this  end 
extensive  ocean  steamship  docks  have  been  constructed  and 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


101 


Houston's  main  business  artery. 

Galveston  can   handle  an   immense   ocean   traffic.      Returning 
now  to  main  line. 

Green's — N.  O.,  353  miles.  Sheldon — Alt.,  59;  N.  O.,  345  miles. 

Fauna — N.  O.,  349  \niles. 

SAN  JACINTO  RIVER— N.  O.,  344  miles. 

This  river,  that  serves  to  per- 
petuate the  memory  of  a  bat- 
tle that  wrought  the  independ- 
ence of  Texas,  empties  into 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  at  Trinity  Bay.  "Remember  the  Alamo!  " 
the  attack  was  made  and  an  overwhelming  victory  secured. 

LIBERTY— N.  O.,  321  miles;  Alt.,  41;  Pop.,  2,000. 

At  Liberty  the  historic  Trinity  is  crossed.  It  rises  in  north- 
ern Texas  and  empties  into  an  eastern  arm  of  Galveston  Bay 
called  Trinity  Bay.  On  its  banks  the  chivalrous  Sieur  de  la 
Salle  was  treacherously  murdered  by  his  companions  in  1687. 


Crosby — N.  O.,  341  miles. 
Walley — N.  O.,  334  miles. 
Stilson — N.  O.,  330  miles. 
Dayton — Alt.,  92;  N.  O.,  327  miles. 


102  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


He  was  leader  of  a  movement  by  France  to  wrest  this  Texas 
region  from  Spain.  The  party  came  in  several  vessels,  direct 
from  France,  but,  by  navigating,  mischance  or  treachery, 
failed  to  find  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi  and  was  wrecked 
on  the  coast  of  Texas. 

Raywood — N.  O.,  313  miles.  Devers — N.  O.,  308  miles. 

Ames — N.  O.,  310  miles.  Felicia — N.  O.,  303  miles. 

NOME— AT.  O.,  298  miles;  Alt.,  54. 

Nome  is  the  junction  point  of  a  branch  line  to  Sour  Lake. 

SOUR  LAKE 

Nine  miles  from  Nome,  covered  by  branch  railway,  Sour 
Lake  and  the  Thermal  Springs  tributary  to  it  are  reached. 
This  resort  for  many  generations  has  enjoyed  a  great  popu- 
larity for  curative  properties.  Its  waters  are  distinctly  spur, 
and  their  use  as  a  beverage,  and  for  bathing,  usually  gives 
speedy  cure  to  cutaneous  and  many  other  diseases.  The  acid 
origin  is  no  doubt  sulphurous.  Near  at  hand  an  oil  field,  similar 
to  that  at  Beaumont,  has  been  revealed,  and  commercial  impor- 
tance is  added  to  its  hygienic  and  sanitary  values. 

China — N.  O.,  293  miles.  Amelia — N.  O.,  284  miles. 

Pine  Island — N.   O.,   288  miles. 

BEAUMONT— N.  O.,  278  miles;  Alt.,  32;  Pop.,  32,000. 

In  transportation  way,  Beaumont  relies  upon  the  transcon- 
tinental line  of  the  Sunset  Route,  but  has  navigable  relations 
with  the  Gulf  through  Neches  River,  and  has  connections 
southward  also  by  Texas  and  New  Orleans  Railway,  thirty 
miles  to  Sabine  Pass,  and  by  same  line  northerly  289  miles  to 
Dallas. 

The  great  lumber  regions  tributary  to  Beaumont  lie  at  the 
foundation  of  its  prosperity,  and  it  hardly  needed  the  dis- 
covery of  an  underlying  reservoir  of  oil,  that  promises  to  be 
exhaustless.  Here  are  large  rice  mills. 

NECHES  RIVER— AT.  O.t  277  miles. 

This  river,  also  historic — comes  to  the  south,  with  drainage 
from  Northern  Texas.  It  empties  into  Sabine  Lake  and  Gulf 
of  Mexico. 

Tulane — N.  O.,  262  miles.  The  rail- 
Diana — N.  O.,  272  miles.  way  in  vicinity  of  Tulane  and 
Terry — N.  O.,  268  miles.  Ferry  crosses  arms  of  Sabine  Lake. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  103 


ORANGE — N.  O.,  256  miles;   Alt,,  21;  Pop.,  8500. 

At  Orange  the  railway  line  makes  a  sharp  turn  northward, 
parallel  with  the  Sabine,  until  Echo  is  reached,  at  a  distance 
of  about  six  miles. 

Orange  is  well  situated  on  this  navigable  river,  and  in 
close  contact  with  an  immense  area  of  valuable  timber.  The 
lumber  output  is  so  large  the  figures  seem  misleading.  This 
city  is  justly  credited  with  public  spirit,  refinement  and 
wealth,  and  has  been  a  resort  of  some  note  for  years.  It  now 
has  a  fine  modern  hotel. 

Echo — N.    O.,    251    miles.      This   station  is  the  last  one  in  Texas. 

SABINE  RIVER— N.  O.,  250  miles. 

This  historic  river,  from  its  mouth  in  Sabine  Lake  at  Gulf 
of  Mexico  to  a  point  contiguous  to  Logansport,  a  short  dis- 
tance southerly  from  Shreveport,  is  boundary  line  between 
Louisiana  and  Texas. 

Toomey — N.  O.,  247  miles.  Edgerly — Alt.,  33;  N.  O.,  238  miles. 

Vinton — N.  O.,  243  miles. 

SULPHUR— N.  0.,  230  miles. 

For  years  it  was  known  a  sulphur  bed  existed  here,  and , 
many  efforts  were  fruitlessly  made  to  reach  it;  failing  all  of 
them  because  of  superimposed  quicksand.  The  mines  re- 
mained idle  for  a  number  of  years  and  their  development  was 
finally  undertaken  successfully.  The  sulphur  being  in  a  solid 
state,  it  is  melted  by  forcing  super-heated  steam  into  it 
through  iron  pipes,  and  the  melted  sulphur  is  drawn  up  and 
emptied  into  great  wooden  vats  where  it  solidifies  as  it  cools. 
The  average  daily  shipment  is  fifteen  cars.  At  last,  how- 
ever, wells  were  driven  to  it,  the  tubing  excluding  the  sand 
and  exposing  the  sulphur  to  control. 

CALCASIEU  RIVER— 

Famed      Calcasieu      River     is     here 
Westlake-N.  O.,  223  miles.      crossed  by  th(?  train      Its  headwaters 

are  in  the  Red  River  country,  also  birthplace  of  Vermillion 
and  Teche.  The  Calcasieu  feeds  lake  of  the  same  name,  and 
thence  to  Gulf  of  Mexico. 


A  New  Orleans  courtyard,  undisturbed  from  the  days  of  French  possession. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES  105 

LAKE  CHARLES—  N.  0.,  220  miles. 

Lake  Charles  as  watering  place  and  popular  resort,  pos- 
sesses many  attractions,  and  makes  the  lakes  and  rivers  pay 
rich  tribute  to  cultivated  tastes.  Its  social  reputation  is  of  the 
highest  and  extends  over  a  wide  area  of  Louisiana  and  Texas. 
A  branch  of  the  Kansas  City  Southern  Railway  leads  north- 
erly from  Lake  Charles  to  De  Quincey  and  Louisiana,  West- 
ern and  St.  Louis,  Watkins  &  Gulf  Railways.  Here  are  large 
rice  and  saw  mills. 
CMoe—N.  O.,  213  miles.  BfiDCTOft  LlbtftTj 

IOWA—  N.  0.,  208  miles. 

The  St.  Louis,  Watkins  and  Gulf  Railway,  with  terminals 
at  Lake  Charles  and  Alexandria,  crosses  the  line  of  the  Sun- 
set Route  at  Iowa. 

Lacassine  —  N.   O.,   202   miles.     The   small  stream  is  western  fork  of  Bayou 
Lacassine. 

WELSH—  N.  O.,  197  miles;    Alt.,  32. 

,      ~  ,  ~  ..  Welsh,  in  all  respects,  is  in  harmony 

RM«^-N.O.,.92m,les.  > 


brought  to  redeem  this  region  from  waste.  The  beneficial 
work  is  being  done  with  rice  cultivation  as  the  foundation  of 
general  prosperity.  Its  small  stream  is  eastern  fork  of 
Bayou  Lacassine. 

JENNINGS—  N.  O.,  187  miles. 

Jennings  draws  heavy  tribute  from  rice  cultivation  and  is 
progressive  and  prosperous.  It  lies  within  the  oil  field  and 
has  a  large  oil  refinery.  For  years  there  was  maintained  here 
an  earthen  tank  which  contained  a  million  barrels  of  oil 
awaiting  shipment. 

MERMENTAU—  N.  O.,  182  miles;  Alt.,  25. 

Mermentau     recalls      Lafitte,     the 

Midland  —  N.  O.,   176  miles.  P,Vof<*     onH    AraHian    rnmanrp        A1- 

Estherwood—N.  O.,  174  miles.      Vittte,  ana  Acadian 

ready  we  have  traversed  much  of 

it,  and  more  is  to  follow  as  we  cross  the  Calcasieu  and  other 
classic  streams.  The  country  now,  as  one  hundred  years  ago, 
invites  to  aquatic  exercises  and  sports.  Everywhere  are 


106  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

floating  the  glossy  varnished  lily  pads;  and  floral  stars  of 
purest  white  dispute  the  verdant  leafage;  water-loving  plants 
spread  their  fronds  for  inspection  and  admiration.  With 
these  the  whole  field  of  vision  during  the  night  is  aflame  with 
fireflies;  the  boom  of  the  bittern  breaks  the  silence,  and  the 
saurian  answers  with  thorough-bass,  frogs  fill  all  the  oc- 
taves, until  the  higher  notes  are  reached  by  katydid  and 
strident  cicada. 

Across  the  twilight  firmament  heavy  flying  pelicans  are 
seen  bearing  the  fish  they  have  caught  to  fledglings  in  the 
distant  nest. 

CROWLEY— N.  O.,  168  miles;   Alt.,  32. 

Rayne — Alt.,  32;  N.  O.,  162  miles.  Scott — N.  O.,   151   miles.     The  small 

Duson — N.  O.,  155  miles.  watercourse  here  is  Conlee-Kinney, 

an  affluent  of  Vermillion  River. 

Crowley  is  an  active  growing  city,  the  seat  of  government 
for  tributary  country,  and  is  the  center  of  a  promising  rice 
cultivation.  Sugar,  rice  and  cotton  are  produced  at  Scott, 
Duson  and  Rayne;  added  to  these,  large  interests  are  de- 
voted to  cattle-raising  and  general  farming.  Estherwood 
is  between  Crowley  and  Midland,  six  miles  from  Crowley. 
From  Midland  a  branch  forty-four  miles  in  length  reaches 
Abbeville,  connecting  with  the  main  line  at  New  Iberia, 
and  another  branch  twenty-four  miles  in  length  to  Eunice. 

LAFAYETTE— N.  0.,  146  miles;  Alt.,  51. 

Vermillion  River-N.  O.,   143  miles.        Originally       this       city       was 
Its    northern    affluents    head    near        Called    Vermillion,    and    IS    SO 

the  Red  River  Region.    It  empties      named      on      some      ancient 

into  Vermillion  Bay  at  the  Gulf.  maps       jt  ig   a  place   enjOying 

an  active  and  prosperous  business  life;  is  southern  terminus 
of  Alexandria  Branch,  eighty-five  miles  in  length  to  Alexan- 
dria on  Red  River;  and  by  Vermillion  River  it  has  waterway 
to  the  Gulf.  The  Southern  Pacific  is  now  building  line  for 
Lafayette  to  Baton  Rouge,  capital  of  State. 

CADE—  N.  O.,  134  miles. 

There  is  a  branch  railway,  the  Port 
Barre,  extending  northerly  from  Cade 
to  St.  Martmsville  seven  miles,  and 

thence  to  Arnaudville,   twenty-nine   miles   from   Cade.     This 


WAYSIDE    NOTES  107 

line  has  lately  been  extended  12  miles  further,  to  Port  Barre. 
In  common  with  the  towns  along  the  Teche,  Cade  occupies 
a  place  of  local  consequence. 

NEW  IBERIA— AT.  0.,  127  miles. 

Olivier-^.  O,  ,**  miles.      New    Iberia   is    connected   with   Abbe- 
ville,  twenty-two  miles  distant,  by  the 

New  Iberia  and  Midland  Ranch,  and  by  a  four-mile  branch 
of  it  at  Junction,  six  miles  from  New  Iberia,  the  celebrated 
Ayery's  Island  or  Petit  Anse  salt  mines  are  reached — ten 
miles  from  New  Iberia.  To  visit  this  wonderful  saline  store- 
house will  give  large  reward.  Avery's  Island,  having  the 
salt,  determined  to  add  pepper  to  it,  with  result  that  epicures 
are  now  enabled  to  rejoice  in  Tabasco  pepper  for  table  use. 

Time  was  when  outside  of  Tabasco  in  Old  Mexico,  this 
species  of  refined  pepper  was  cultivated  only  on  Avery's 
Island,  but  is  now  produced  elsewhere. 

JEANERETTE— N.  O.,  116  miles. 

A,  ,.       AT  ~  Teanerette    makes    successful    claim    to 

X«W«,*-N.O.....  miles.      £Q    jj^    Q{    {he    saccharine    output    of 

the  Teche.  Here  is  to  be  seen  old  Gribbenberg  plantation, 
typical  of  slavery  days  "befo'  de  wah." 

BALDWIN— AT.  O.,  107  miles. 

Baldwin,  as  above  noted,  connects  by  rail  with  Cypremort 
southerly  fifteen  miles. 

It  has  a  large  commercial  business,  dealing  chiefly  in  cane 
products  and  the  demands  of  its  cultivation. 

FRANKLIN— N.  O.,  103  miles. 

Franklin,  and  as  well  Patterson,  and  the  entire  country  as 
far  as  Jeanerette,  are  in  the  Teche  sugar  paradise. 

Franklin  enjoys  an  active  life  and  has  a  branch  railway 
nineteen  miles  in  length  to  Cypremort  and  covers  Baldwin 
by  it,  four  miles  from  Franklin. 

BAYOU  SALE— N.  O.,  97  miles. 

This   place   supports   a  valuable   traffic 

Calumet-N.  O.,  92  miles.  in  ^^  ^  ^  supplies  needed  by  its 
producers. 


108 


SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 


The    Southern   Pacific   bridge   across   Atchafalaya    Bayou,    Morgan    City. 

PATTERSON— A'.  O.f  88  miles. 


Berwick — N.  O.,  82     miles, 
duction. 


Patterson    is    a    thriving    town    and 
well   approved   center   of   sugar   pro- 


Ramos — N.  O.,  77  miles. 
Bocuf — N.  O.,  75  miles. 
Gibson — N.  O.,  66  miles. 


MORGAN  CITY— A'.  O.,  82  miles. 

Morgan  City  is  an  important  seaport 
town,  planted  on  the  eastern  bank  of 
Bayou  Atchafalaya,  a  navigable 

Donner— N.  O.,  66  miles.  water  course  with  many  affluents  in- 
Chacahoula — N.  O.,  63  miles.  <  ,  ^i  1  •  1  j-  r 

land     northerly,     including     that     of 

Bayou  Teche;  it  drains  the  country  parallel  with  the  Missis- 
sippi, extending  almost  to  the  banks  of  Red  River,  and 
reaches  the  Gulf  through  Atchafalaya  Bay.  It  is  substan- 
tially bridged  at  Morgan  City — with  town  of  Berwick  at  the 
western  end. 


WAYSIDE   NOTES 


109 


Loading  cotton  at  New  Orleans — a  typical  scene  of  the  Sunny  South. 


SCHRIEVER— N.  O.,  57  miles. 

Schriever  is  of  commercial  importance,  growing  out  of  its 
sugar  production  and  other  enterprises.  A  branch  railway, 
six  miles  in  length,  extends  northerly  to  Thibodaux  and 
Napoleonville  and  a  second  branch  southerly,  fifteen  miles  to 
Houma. 

LAFOURCHE— N.  O.,  53  miles. 

Rousseau — N.  O.,  49  miles.  Boutte — N.   O.,  24  miles. 

Bowie — N.  O.,  42  miles.  Salix — N.  O.,  19  miles. 

Raceland  Junction — N.  O.,  40  miles.  Jefferson — N.  O.,  13  miles. 

Des  Allemands — N.  O.,  32  miles.  Avondale — N.  O.,  12  miles. 
Paradis — N.  O.,  29  miles. 

At  Lafourche  and  Raceland  sugar-cane  is  profitably  grown, 
and  the  principal  water  course  is  Bayou  Black,  self-named  on 
account  of  chemical  and  vegetable  stain  in  the  water. 

The  Des  Allemands  Bayou,  on  which  this  quaint  old  Ger- 
man settlement  was  planted,  connects  Lake  Des  Allemands 


110  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

at  the  north  with  Lake  Salvador  at  the  south;  and  finally 
debouches  into  Barataria  Bay,  the  one-time  chosen  haunt 
of  La  Fitte  and  his  pirate  crew. 

The  approach  to  New  Orleans  from  the  west  has  been 
through  the  great  rice  belt  of  Louisiana,  where  is  grown  the 
nutritious  pearly  cereal  that  in  recent  years  has  become  one 
of  the  most  important  commercial  products  of  the  country — 
through  the  "Sugar  Bowl"  of  Louisiana,  rich  in  the  succulent 
cane  that  makes  "New  Orleans  molasses"  possible  to  the 
cakes  and  waffles  of  a  continent's  well-ordered  breakfast. 

That  portion  of  the  State  traversed  by  you  for  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  is  low  lying  and  of  surpassing  richness — a 
romantic  land  of  lakes  and  sluggish  bayou  water  courses; 
here  and  there  rich  plantations  of  sugar  and  of  rice,  alternat- 
ing flag  and  reed  covered  savannas,  and  bodies  of  lichen- 
draped  timber;  these  last,  conveniently  threaded  by  canoe 
water  ways,  useful  in  promotion  of  timber  commerce,  and 
for  sporting  purposes.  When  there  is  high  water  in  the 
Mississippi,  much  of  this  land,  if  not  protected  by  levee,  is 
under  water,  and  not  infrequently  serpents  and  saurians  may 
be  caught  napping  on  some  prostrate  tree  bole  that  invites 
to  sun-bath. 

This  fertile  and  highly  interesting  region  includes  the  sugar 
center  of  Louisiana;  the  Teche  and  the  romantic  land  of 
Acadia. 

It  will  interest  you  to  know  that  you  reach  the  Mississippi 
River  at  Avondale,  and,  without  leaving  your  seats,  the  en- 
tire train  is  taken  aboard  an  immense  ferry-boat,  and  across 
the  river  to  the  union  station,  corner  of  Howard  Avenue  and 
Rampart  Street,  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  with  Canal 
Street  and  the  principal  hotels  only  from  six  to  ten  blocks 
away. 

MISSISSIPPI    RIVER 

If  one  asks,  "What  is  the  dominant  feature  of  New  Or- 
leans?" the  answer  shall  be:  "The  wondrous  waterway  that 
has  made  such  a  metropolis  possible" — the  tawny,  down- 
moving  tide,  that  in  its  majesty  compelled  recognition  as 
"Father  of  Waters."  The  eastern  bank  of  this  nine-mile  curve 
of  it,  becoming  urban,  has  been  named  Crescent  City. 

Standing,    contemplative    on    the    levee,    its    influence    is    in 


•      WAYSIDE    NOTES  111 

line  with  that  of  Niagara's  fatal  plunge.  Few  persons  un- 
moved can  look  upon  this  turbid  current,  bearing  gifts  of  fer- 
tility, the  tribute  of  Cumberland,  of  Blue  Ridge  and  the 
Alleghanys;  of  far-away  western  Lake  Superior's  lacustrine 
hunting-grounds,  and  from  Rocky  Mountain  fastnesses  and 
realms  of  his  Majesty  the  King,  in  British  America. 

Here  speaks  the  voice  of  resistless  Omnipotence;  the  scene 
commands  silence  by  its  majesty,  its  hints  of  tireless  strength. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  mark  in  backward  glance  the  opulent 
city,  born  of  the  flood  and  fostered  by  its  bounty,  nor  to 
remember  its  romantic  history,  the  story  of  its  rich  ocean 
cargoes  and  the  fleet  of  river  steamers  that  wove  the  enrich- 
ing web  of  inland  commerce.  The  river  hides  its  secrets, 
imperturbable,  this  Nile  of  the  Americas,  highway  of  nations 
vanished  long  ago.  If  for  this  view  you  have  traversed 
the  continent  from  Pacific  to  Atlantic,  your  reward  is  all 
sufficient. 

At  the  ferry  of  the  Sunset  Route,  the  river's  breadth  is 
about  half  a  mile,  with  an  extreme  depth  of  two  hundred  feet 
at  high  water;  and  current,  five  miles  an  hour;  the  distance 
to  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  one  hundred  and  eighteen  miles. 

NEW  ORLEANS— Pop.,  350,000, 

This  city,  under  wise  sanitation,  now  takes  high  rank  for 
healthfulness,  whether  the  seasonal  test  be  midsummer,  or 
the  opposite  segment  of  the  annual  circle. 

Let  no  one  so  misapprehend  the  fact  as  to  avoid  or  pass  it 
flying,  since  painstaking  inspections  offer  unusual  rewards. 
In  many  respects  the  large  cities  of  our  country  are  replicas; 
differences  relating  chiefly  to  their  topography  and  area,  but 
this  southern  metropolis  is  unique,  and  must  for  all  time 
remain  so.  It  is  most  unlikely  in  the  world's  future  history, 
that  the  genesis  of  any  other  city  will  fall  under  the  complex 
influences  that  presided  here. 

The  city  is  proud  of  its  business  buildings,  as  no  less  than 
six  skyscrapers  have  been  built  the  last  year,  with  several 
more  planned  for  the  near  future.  These,  in  addition  to 
several  already  in  hand,  make  the  city  compare  favorably 
with  any  other  metropolis.  Make  judicial  selection  of  street 
car  lines  and  thread  the  principal  avenues,  thereby  obtaining 
a  general  idea  of  urban  characteristics;  thereafter  by  carriage, 


112  SOUTHERN    PACIFIC 

with  competent  Jehu,  give  critical  examination  of  poetic, 
historic  and  romantic  bits;  nor  let  consuming  interest  in  the 
living  overshadow  some  thoughts  of  sacred  dust  that  immor- 
talizes the  metropolis.  You  will  surely  visit  this,  and  seeing 
with  what  exquisite  good  taste  and  filial  piety  paternal  ashes 
are  inurned,  will  have  your  reward  in  juster  appreciation 
of  a  love  that  requires  such  high  art  to  give  it  visible 
expression. 

You  have  noted  the  Cathedral  on  Jackson  Square,  mayhap, 
have  enjoyed  its  incensed  atmosphere;  have  marked  the 
equestrian  statue  in  bronze  to  General  Jackson,  standing  on 
the  spot  where  in  its  day  stood  a  triumphal  arch  heavy  with 
victor's  laurel  and  fragrant  with  choicest  gifts  of  Flora,  be- 
neath which,  in  grand  march  to  the  sacred  temple,  all  the 
people  in  loud  acclaim  escorted  the  hero. 

Historic  French  market  is  not  far  distant  and  invites  an 
early  morning  call.  When,  through  these  various  visits  you 
have  possessed  yourself  of  the  spiritual  and  social  aroma, 
and  of  the  commercial  no  less  than  material  atmosphere  of 
this  city,  it  will  stand  before  you  pre-eminently  non-provincial 
— a  cosmopolitan  metropolis — having  no  peer  in  this  or  any 
other  land. 

Connection  is  made  at  New  Orleans  with  the  palatiaJ 
steamers  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Company  for  New  York  and 
Havana. 


REPRESENTATIVES  .PASSENGER    DEPARTMENT 

HjftAS.  S.  FEE,  Passenger  Traffic  Manager San  Francisco,  Cal. 

[/&..  HORSBURGH,    JR.,    General    Passenger    Agent San  Francisco,  Cal. 

*.  A.  DONALDSON,  Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent San  Francisco,  Cal. 

£.  R.  JUDAH,  Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent San  Francisco,  Cal. 

5$UL  SHOUP,  Assistant  General   Passenger   Agent San  Francisco,  Cal. 

T.'  A.  GRAHAM,  Assistant  General  Pass.  Agent,  600  S.  Spring  St.  .Los  Angeles,  Cal. 

WM.   McMuRRAY,  General  Passenger  Agent,  Oregon  Lines Portland,  Ore. 

f.  M.  SCOTT,  Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent,  Oregon  Lines Portland,  Ore. 

).  E.  BURLEY,  General  Pass.  Agent,  Lines  East  of  Sparks Salt  Lake  City,  Utah 

}.  *S.  SPENCER,  Asst.  Gen.  Pass.  Agent,  Lines  East  of  Sparks.  .  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah 

THOS  J.  ANDERSON,  General  Passenger  Agent,  G.  H.  &  S.  A.  Ry Houston,  Texas 

}.-  HELLEN,  Assistant  General  Passenger  Agent,  G.  H.  &  S.  A.  Ry.  .Houston,  Texas 

I"    E.  BATTURS,  General  Passenger  Agent,  M.  L.  &  T.  R.  R New  Orleans,  La. 

O.   BICKNELL,   General  Passenger  Agent,  A.  &  C.  R.  R.,  C.  Y.  R.  &  P.  R.  R.,  G.  V. 

G.  &  N.  Ry.,  M.  &  P.  &  S.  R.  V.  R.  R.,  Sonora  Ry Tucson,  Ariz. 

j.  F.  JACKSON,  Asst.  General  Passenger  Agent,  Sonora  Ry Guaymas,  Mexico 

-GENERAL    DIVISION    AND    TRAVELING    AGENTS 

A-LANTA,  GA. — J.  F.  Van  Rensselaer,  General  Agent 124  Peachtree  Street 

&>  ^TIMORE,  MD. — B.  B.  Barber,  Agent Piper  Building 

vfc  CSE,  IDAHO — D.  P.  Stubbs,  Dist.  Pass.  Agent,  O.  S.  L.  R.  R 

!&;STON,  MASS. — J.  H.  Glynn,  New  England  Agent 170  Washington  Street 

fer.TTE,  MONT.— F.  D.  Wilson,  D.  P.  &  F.  Agt.,  O.  R.  &  N.  Co..  105  N.  Main  Street 

@i  ICAGO,  ILL. — W.  G.  Neimyer,  General  Agent 120  Jackson  Boulevard 

HKUCINNATI,  OHIO — W.  H.  Connor,  General  Agent 53  East  Fourth  Street 

iplNVER,  COLO. — W.  K.  McAllister,  Gen.  Agent 313  Railway  Exchange  Building 

Drs  MOINES,  IA. — J.  W.  Turtle,  Traveling  Passenger  Agent 313  W.  5th  Street 

'jbzTROiT,  MICH. — F.   B.   Choate,  General  Agent 1 1  Fort  Street 

.EL  PASO,  TEXAS— A.  W.  Reeves,  General  Agent,  G.  H.  &  S.  A.  Ry 

Fjfc^SNO,  CAL. — C.  M.  Burkhalter,  District  Pass,  and  Freight  Agent 1013  J  Street 

MxJbfiAS  CITY,  Mo. — H.  G.  Kaill,  General  Agent 901  Walnut  Street 

LEWISTON,  IDAHO — C.  W.  Mount,  General  Agent,  O.  R.  &  N.  Co 

I,os  ANGELES,  CAL. — N.  R.  Martin,  Dist.  Pass.  Agent 600  South  Spring  Street 

J|EXICO  CITY,  MEX. — W.  C.  McCormick,  General  Agent Prol.  5  de  Mayo 

MINNEAPOLIS,  MINN. — H.  F.  Carter,  District  Passenger  Agent 21  S.  Third  Street 

VloNTEREY,  MEX. — H.  N.  Gibson,  General  Agent Old  P.  O.  Building 

NEW  YORK,  N.  Y. — L.  H.  Nutting,  Gen.  East.  Pass.  Agent i  and  349  Broadway 

OAKLAND,  CAL. — G.  T.  Forsyth,  Dist.  Pass,  and  Frt.  Agt. ..  1 3th  and  Franklin  Streets 

OLY'MPIA,  WASH.— J.  C.  Percival,  Agent Percivals  Dock 

PHILADELPHIA,  PA. — R.  J.  Smith,  Agent 632  Chestnut  Street 

MTTTSBURG,  PA. — G.  G.  Herring,  General  Agent 708-9  Park  Building 

(TOO,  NEV. — E.  W.  Clapp,  District  Passenger  and  Freight  Agent.  .Gazette  Building 

SACRAMENTO,  CAL. — John  C.  Stone,  District  Passenger  and  Freight  Agent 

SALT  LAKE  CITY,  UTAH— D.  R.  Gray,  Dist.  Pass,  and  Freight  Agt.. 201  Main  Street 

SAN  DIEGO,  CAL. — J.  R.  Downs,  Commercial  Agent 901  Fifth  Street 

SAK  FRANCISCO,  CAL.— A.  S.  Mann,  Dist.  Pass.  Agt.  .884  Market  St.  &  12  Powell  St. 

N  FOSE,  CAL. — E.  Shillingsburg,  Dist.  Pass,  and  Frt.  Agt 40  E.  Santa  Clara  St. 

SEATTLE,  WASH.— E.  E.  Ellis,  General  Agent 608  First  Avenue 

JJrOKANE,  WASH. — W.  R.  Skey,  Traveling  Passenger  Agent,  O.  R.  &  N.  Co 

•ST. -Louis,  Mo.— L.  E.  Townsley,  General  Agent 903  Olive  Street 

^YEACUSE,  N.  Y.— F.  T.  Brooks,  New  York  State  Agent 212  W.  Washington  St. 

I'TACOMA,  WASH.— Robt.  Lee,  Agent Eleventh  and  Pacific  Avenue 

TrcsoN,  ARIZ.— M.  O.  Bicknell,  Asst.  General  Passenger  and  Freight  Agent 

f. WALLA  WALLA,  WASH.— R.  Burns,  Dist.  Frt.  &  Pass.  Agt.,  O.  R.  &  N.  Co 

•SHINGTON,  D.  C. — A.  J.  Poston,  Gen'l  Agt.,  Washington-Sunset  Route.. 905  r  bt. 

Bbdplph  Falck,  General  European  Passenger  Agent,  Amerikahaus,  25,  27  Ferdinand 


ph  Falck,  General  European  Passenger  Agent,  Amenkahaus,  25,  27  Ferdinand 
Strasse,  Hamburg,  Germany;  49  Leadenhall  Street,  London,  E.  C.,  England; 
22   Cockspur  Street,   London,  W.   E.,   England;     25   Water  Street,   Liverpool, 
Wynhaven  S.  S.,  Rotterdam,  Netherlands;   n   Rue  Chapelle  de 
p,  Belgium;  39  Rue  St.  Augustin,  Paris,  France. 

T.   D.   McKay,  General  Passenger  Agent S.  F.   O.  R. 


SEA 


S  EA 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

TO 

NEW  ORLEANS 


VESTIBULED  SLEEPING  CAR' 
DRAWING  ROOMS 
OBSERVATION  CARS 
CAFE -LADIES  PARLOR 
SMOKING  AND  LOUNG!' • 
ROOMS,  LIBRARY. 


D  MISSIS! 

GH  ORANGE 
THE  LAND  OF  T* 
AND  TH.ECA! 


